A–Z Index.
The back-of-book index. Every place, subject and recurring motif in the Notebook, alphabetically, with the entries that mention them.
A
23 entriesAchill
SubjectAchill Island
Co. MayoAdare
Co. LimerickAfter Rain
SubjectAfter-rain
SubjectAfternoon
SubjectAfternoon Tea
SubjectAll-inclusive
SubjectAncient
SubjectAntrim
CountyAntrim
SubjectApril
SubjectAran
SubjectAran Islands
Co. GalwayAran Islands
SubjectArchitecture
SubjectArdmore
Co. WaterfordAshford Castle
Co. MayoAtlantic
Subject- Guinness in Dingle, at Dick Mack'sAug 2026
- Guinness in Galway, before the matchJul 2026
- Dún Aonghasa at first light, before the boatsJun 2026
- Hook Head, the oldest light in the world, in a winter stormJun 2026
- Fanad Head, the last lighthouse before the open seaJun 2026
- Inchydoney, learning to surf in west CorkJun 2026
- Lahinch, the wave that taught Ireland to surfJun 2026
- Strandhill, surfing under KnocknareaJun 2026
- + 10 more
Atlantic Drive
SubjectAtmosphere
SubjectAugust
SubjectAutumn
Subject- Cashel Palace, the garden suite in OctoberJul 2026
- Glenveagh and the red deer at first lightJun 2026
- Rock of Cashel out of seasonMay 2026
- The Mournes when the bracken turnsMay 2026
- Adare Manor after the leaves turnFeb 2026
- Sheen Falls when the river risesJan 2026
- September in KinsaleAug 2024
- Early October in the BurrenJul 2024
- + 2 more
B
19 entriesBack Roads
SubjectBallyfin
SubjectBallymaloe
Co. CorkBallynahinch
Co. GalwayBasement
SubjectBeach
SubjectBeaches
Subject- The Forty Foot, at the hour the city forgetsJun 2026
- Dogs Bay, where the sand is made of shellsJun 2026
- Brittas Bay, the hour before the cars come backJun 2026
- Inchydoney, learning to surf in west CorkJun 2026
- Lahinch, the wave that taught Ireland to surfJun 2026
- Strandhill, surfing under KnocknareaJun 2026
- Keem Bay, at the end of the Achill roadJun 2026
- Coumeenoole, the small wild beach below Slea HeadJun 2026
- + 2 more
Beara
Subjectbefore dinner
Recurring motifBelfast
Co. AntrimBelfast
SubjectBelonging
SubjectBistro
SubjectBoyne Valley
Co. MeathBoyne Valley
SubjectBreakfast
SubjectBurren
Co. ClareBurren
SubjectBushmills
Co. Antrim
C
30 entriesCarlingford
SubjectCashel
Co. TipperaryCastle
Subject- Ashford Castle, when the lake goes stillJun 2026
- Rock of Cashel out of seasonMay 2026
- Rooms where the windows stay open to the seaMay 2026
- Hotels for weatherApr 2026
- Dromoland in FebruaryJan 2026
- Lough Eske on a long eveningDec 2025
- Kilkea with the fires litDec 2025
- Ballygally Castle with the sea in the windowNov 2025
- + 8 more
Causeway
SubjectCauseway Coast
Co. AntrimCavan
SubjectChristmas
SubjectCity
SubjectCity Centre
SubjectClare
CountyClare
Subject- Linnane's Lobster Bar, the pier-end oysters in New QuayJun 2026
- Lahinch, the wave that taught Ireland to surfJun 2026
- The Burren on a grey afternoonMay 2026
- Lahinch on a still morningMay 2026
- Dromoland in FebruaryJan 2026
- Doonbeg, the morning roomOct 2025
- The Burren on a grey afternoonAug 2025
- The coast road from Galway to DoolinJun 2025
- + 4 more
Clarinbridge
SubjectClassic
SubjectCliffs
SubjectCliffs of Moher
Co. ClareCoast
SubjectCoastal
SubjectCoastal Drive
Subject- The road to Slea Head, just after rainApr 2026
- The Ring of Kerry, the wrong directionSep 2025
- The Causeway coast in late lightSep 2025
- The Sky Road out of ClifdenAug 2025
- The Beara peninsula when everyone else is on the RingAug 2025
- Sheep's Head, driven slowlyAug 2025
- Mizen Head on a clear afternoonJul 2025
- The coast road from Galway to DoolinJun 2025
Coastal Walk
SubjectConnemara
Co. GalwayConnemara
Subject- Connemara when the cloud liftsJun 2026
- Inishbofin, the afternoon ferry out of ClegganJun 2026
- Dogs Bay, where the sand is made of shellsJun 2026
- The Sky Road out of ClifdenMay 2026
- The Headford road into ConnemaraMay 2026
- The Sky Road out of ClifdenAug 2025
- The Headford road into ConnemaraJun 2025
- A July afternoon in ConnemaraAug 2024
Cork
CountyCork
Subject- Guinness in Cork, at the Hi-BAug 2026
- Kinsale on a low-tide eveningMay 2026
- The long lunch at BallymaloeApr 2026
- The Beara peninsula when everyone else is on the RingAug 2025
- Sheep's Head, driven slowlyAug 2025
- Mizen Head on a clear afternoonJul 2025
- The Healy Pass from AdrigoleMay 2025
- Ichigo Ichie Cork, the counterJan 2025
- + 3 more
Cosy
SubjectCounter
SubjectCounter-clockwise
SubjectCountry House
Subject- Cashel Palace, the garden suite in OctoberJul 2026
- Adare Manor, the hour before dinnerJul 2026
- Sheen Falls, the second nightJun 2026
- The folded blanket at BallyfinJun 2026
- Hotel breakfasts that are worth the roomApr 2026
- Mount Juliet for a long weekendFeb 2026
- Ballyfin, the third eveningDec 2025
- Christmas week in an Irish country houseJul 2024
County Down
SubjectCross-border
SubjectCycle
Subject
D
19 entriesDawn
SubjectDay Trip
SubjectDecember
SubjectDerry
CountyDerry
SubjectDingle
Co. KerryDingle
SubjectDocks
SubjectDonegal
CountyDonegal
Subject- Glenveagh and the red deer at first lightJun 2026
- Fanad Head, the last lighthouse before the open seaJun 2026
- Donegal when the light breaksMay 2026
- Silver Strand at Malin Beg, the stairs nobody talks aboutMar 2026
- Lough Eske on a long eveningDec 2025
- Inishowen and the northern headlandsJul 2025
- August in DonegalAug 2024
Doolin
Co. ClareDoolin
SubjectDown
SubjectDrive
SubjectDriving
SubjectDromoland
Co. ClareDublin
County- Guinness in Dublin, after rainJun 2026
- Brittas Bay, the hour before the cars come backJun 2026
- Dublin when it rains all dayMay 2026
- Dublin in DecemberMar 2026
- Clontarf Castle for one Dublin nightOct 2025
- The Cooley peninsula out from DublinJul 2025
- Chapter One, the room that keeps getting betterApr 2025
- Liath at Blackrock MarketApr 2025
- + 7 more
Dublin
Subject- What I tell every American friend before their first tripSep 2026
- Stephen's Green after the showerJun 2026
- The Enterprise from Belfast to Dublin, at duskJun 2026
- Guinness in Dublin, after rainJun 2026
- The Forty Foot, at the hour the city forgetsJun 2026
- An evening walk on Howth HeadMay 2026
- Dublin when it rains all dayMay 2026
- Dublin in DecemberMar 2026
- + 23 more
Dusk
Subject
E
7 entriesEast Coast
SubjectEast Cork
SubjectEaster
SubjectEquinox
SubjectEstate
SubjectEvening
SubjectExpat Perspective
Subject- The biggest mistake Americans make in Irish pubsOct 2026
- What I tell every American friend before their first tripSep 2026
- The Difference Between Hospitality And ServiceJul 2026
- The Irish house is the centre of everythingJul 2026
- The Irish weather is not the problemJun 2026
- Why nobody is in a hurryJun 2026
- The best day of your trip will not be on the itineraryJun 2026
- The Irish luxury Americans don't noticeJun 2026
- + 3 more
F
10 entriesFamily
SubjectFamily-run
SubjectFanad
SubjectFebruary
SubjectFerry
SubjectFires
SubjectFirst Trip
SubjectFlora
SubjectFoodie
SubjectForty Foot
Co. Dublin
G
14 entriesGalway
CountyGalway
Subject- Guinness in Galway, before the matchJul 2026
- Moran's Oyster Cottage: the best oysters near GalwayJun 2026
- Inishbofin, the afternoon ferry out of ClegganJun 2026
- Dogs Bay, where the sand is made of shellsJun 2026
- The Sky Road out of ClifdenAug 2025
- The coast road from Galway to DoolinJun 2025
- The Headford road into ConnemaraJun 2025
- Aniar in Galway, the tasting menuMay 2025
- + 1 more
Galway Bay
SubjectGardens
SubjectGeorgian
SubjectGlendalough
Co. WicklowGlendalough
SubjectGlenveagh
Co. DonegalGlenveagh
SubjectGolf
SubjectGolf Resort
SubjectGrand Hotel
SubjectGrey Light
SubjectGuinness
Subject
H
15 entriesHairpin
SubjectHarbour
SubjectHard to Book
SubjectHeadland
SubjectHeather
SubjectHeritage
SubjectHistory
SubjectHoneymoon
SubjectHook Head
Co. WexfordHook Head
SubjectHospitality
SubjectHotels
Subject- Cashel Palace, the garden suite in OctoberJul 2026
- Adare Manor, the hour before dinnerJul 2026
- The Difference Between Hospitality And ServiceJul 2026
- Sheen Falls, the second nightJun 2026
- The folded blanket at BallyfinJun 2026
- Mount Stewart, the walled garden in early summerJun 2026
- Ashford Castle, when the lake goes stillJun 2026
- The Irish hotel test we use before bookingMay 2026
- + 27 more
How To Think About Ireland
SubjectHowth
Co. DublinHowth
Subject
I
11 entriesIndoor
SubjectInishmore
SubjectInishowen
Co. DonegalInn
SubjectIreland For Americans
Subject- The biggest mistake Americans make in Irish pubsOct 2026
- What I tell every American friend before their first tripSep 2026
- The Irish weather is not the problemJun 2026
- Why nobody is in a hurryJun 2026
- The Irish hotel test we use before bookingMay 2026
- What Americans get wrong about Irish peopleApr 2026
- Why we never stay one night anywhere in IrelandApr 2026
Irish Culture
SubjectIrish Moments
Subject- The biggest mistake Americans make in Irish pubsOct 2026
- What I tell every American friend before their first tripSep 2026
- Guinness in Kilkenny, by the NoreAug 2026
- Guinness in Dingle, at Dick Mack'sAug 2026
- Guinness in Belfast, at the CrownAug 2026
- Guinness in Cork, at the Hi-BAug 2026
- Guinness in Galway, before the matchJul 2026
- The Difference Between Hospitality And ServiceJul 2026
- + 44 more
Island
SubjectIslands
SubjectItineraries
SubjectItinerary
Subject
J
3 entriesJanuary
SubjectJuly
SubjectJune
Subject
K
14 entriesKappo
SubjectKayak
SubjectKelly Oysters
SubjectKenmare
Co. KerryKerry
CountyKerry
Subject- Guinness in Dingle, at Dick Mack'sAug 2026
- Sheen Falls, the second nightJun 2026
- Slea Head in June, when the light refuses to goJun 2026
- Coumeenoole, the small wild beach below Slea HeadJun 2026
- The road to Slea Head, just after rainApr 2026
- Sheen Falls when the river risesJan 2026
- The Europe Hotel, the third morningDec 2025
- Ballyseede in TraleeSep 2025
- + 5 more
Kildare
CountyKildare
SubjectKilkenny
CountyKilkenny
SubjectKillarney
Co. KerryKillarney
SubjectKinsale
Co. CorkKinsale
Subject
L
23 entriesLahinch
Co. ClareLake Drive
SubjectLake Light
SubjectLakeside
SubjectLaois
SubjectLate Light
SubjectLibrary
SubjectLiffey
SubjectLight
SubjectLighthouse
SubjectLimerick
SubjectLimestone
SubjectLinks
SubjectLocal
SubjectLong Days
SubjectLong Evenings
SubjectLong Lunch
SubjectLough
SubjectLough Tay
SubjectLoughcrew
SubjectLouth
SubjectLunch
SubjectLuxury
Subject
M
21 entriesManor
SubjectMarch
SubjectMarket
SubjectMay
SubjectMayo
SubjectMeals
Subject- Moran's Oyster Cottage: the best oysters near GalwayJun 2026
- Linnane's Lobster Bar, the pier-end oysters in New QuayJun 2026
- PJ O'Hare's, the Carlingford Lough half dozenJun 2026
- The long lunch at BallymaloeApr 2026
- Hotel breakfasts that are worth the roomApr 2026
- Aniar in Galway, the tasting menuMay 2025
- Chapter One, the room that keeps getting betterApr 2025
- Liath at Blackrock MarketApr 2025
- + 14 more
Meath
CountyMeath
SubjectMichelin
SubjectMizen
SubjectModern
SubjectMonastic
SubjectMorning
SubjectMorning Light
SubjectMount Stewart
SubjectMountain
SubjectMountain Drive
SubjectMountains
SubjectMourne
SubjectMournes
Co. DownMournes
Subject
N
10 entriesNational Park
SubjectNear Airport
SubjectNear Dublin
SubjectNeighbourhood
SubjectNeolithic
SubjectNo Car
SubjectNorman
SubjectNorthern Ireland
SubjectNorthside
SubjectNovember
Subject
O
2 entriesP
7 entriesPeninsulas
SubjectPhilosophy
SubjectPint
SubjectPlanning
SubjectPowerscourt
Co. WicklowPub
Subject- Guinness in Kilkenny, by the NoreAug 2026
- Guinness in Dingle, at Dick Mack'sAug 2026
- Guinness in Belfast, at the CrownAug 2026
- Guinness in Cork, at the Hi-BAug 2026
- Guinness in Galway, before the matchJul 2026
- PJ O'Hare's, the Carlingford Lough half dozenJun 2026
- Guinness in Dublin, after rainJun 2026
- Pubs at dusk in the westMar 2026
- + 3 more
Pubs
Subject
Q
2 entriesQuiet
Subject- The Vee Pass in TipperaryMay 2026
- The Beara peninsula when everyone else is on the RingAug 2025
- Inishowen and the northern headlandsJul 2025
- The Cooley peninsula out from DublinJul 2025
- The Headford road into ConnemaraJun 2025
- The Vee Pass in TipperaryMay 2025
- Trinity College, just after dawnJan 2025
- Kilkenny Castle on a quiet ThursdayDec 2024
- + 3 more
Quiet Season
Subject
R
7 entriesRain
SubjectRainy Day
SubjectRestored
SubjectRing of Kerry
Co. KerryRiver
SubjectRiverside
SubjectRoads
Subject- Connemara when the cloud liftsJun 2026
- Lough Tay from the Sally Gap, in the wrong weatherJun 2026
- Fanad Head, the last lighthouse before the open seaJun 2026
- The Mournes from NewcastleMay 2026
- The Mournes when the bracken turnsMay 2026
- The Vee Pass in TipperaryMay 2026
- The Healy Pass from AdrigoleMay 2026
- The Sky Road out of ClifdenMay 2026
- + 19 more
S
32 entriesSally Gap
Co. WicklowSally Gap
SubjectSaturday
SubjectSauna
SubjectSeafood
SubjectSeasonal Notes
Subject- Glendalough on a Tuesday in FebruaryJul 2026
- Slea Head in June, when the light refuses to goJun 2026
- Donegal when the light breaksMay 2026
- Rock of Cashel out of seasonMay 2026
- October in West CorkMar 2026
- May on the Wild Atlantic WaySep 2024
- June light in the westAug 2024
- A July afternoon in ConnemaraAug 2024
- + 13 more
September
SubjectSet Menu
SubjectSkelligs
Co. KerrySkibbereen
SubjectSlea Head
SubjectSligo
CountySligo
SubjectSlow
Subject- Guinness in Kilkenny, by the NoreAug 2026
- Cashel Palace, the garden suite in OctoberJul 2026
- Adare Manor, the hour before dinnerJul 2026
- Glendalough on a Tuesday in FebruaryJul 2026
- Sheen Falls, the second nightJun 2026
- The folded blanket at BallyfinJun 2026
- Stephen's Green after the showerJun 2026
- Guinness in Dublin, after rainJun 2026
- + 17 more
Slow Travel
Subject- The biggest mistake Americans make in Irish pubsOct 2026
- The Irish weather is not the problemJun 2026
- Why nobody is in a hurryJun 2026
- The best day of your trip will not be on the itineraryJun 2026
- The Irish luxury Americans don't noticeJun 2026
- The Irish hotel test we use before bookingMay 2026
- What Americans get wrong about Irish peopleApr 2026
- Why we never stay one night anywhere in IrelandApr 2026
Small Plates
SubjectSmall Rooms
SubjectSnug
SubjectSouth-west
SubjectSpa
SubjectSpecial Occasion
SubjectSpring
SubjectSt Stephen's Green
Co. DublinStephen's Green
SubjectStorms
SubjectStrandhill
Co. SligoStrangford
SubjectSummer
SubjectSunday Lunch
SubjectSurf
SubjectSustainable
SubjectSwim
Subject
T
13 entriesTasting Menu
SubjectTerroir
SubjectTipperary
CountyTipperary
SubjectTrad
SubjectTradition
SubjectTrain
SubjectTralee
SubjectTransition
SubjectTrees
SubjectTrinity
SubjectTwelve-mile
SubjectTwo-star
Subject
U
1 entryUNESCO
Subject
V
4 entriesVegetarian
SubjectVictorian
SubjectView
SubjectVillage
Subject
W
19 entriesWalk
Subject- Brittas Bay, the hour before the cars come backJun 2026
- Silver Strand at Malin Beg, the stairs nobody talks aboutMar 2026
- Sheep's Head, driven slowlyAug 2025
- The Gap of Dunloe on footJul 2025
- Derry walls on footDec 2024
- Georgian doors on Merrion SquareOct 2024
- The Cliffs of Moher at five thirtyOct 2024
- Early October in the BurrenJul 2024
Walking
SubjectWalls
SubjectWaterford
CountyWaterford
SubjectWest
Subject- Connemara when the cloud liftsJun 2026
- Slea Head in June, when the light refuses to goJun 2026
- Dogs Bay, where the sand is made of shellsJun 2026
- Keem Bay, at the end of the Achill roadJun 2026
- Donegal when the light breaksMay 2026
- Rooms where the windows stay open to the seaMay 2026
- Pubs at dusk in the westMar 2026
West Coast
SubjectWest Cork
Co. CorkWest Cork
SubjectWexford
SubjectWhiskey
SubjectWicklow
SubjectWild
SubjectWild Atlantic
SubjectWild Atlantic Way
Subject- Moran's Oyster Cottage: the best oysters near GalwayJun 2026
- Inishbofin, the afternoon ferry out of ClegganJun 2026
- Lough Hyne when the tide reversesJun 2026
- Fanad Head, the last lighthouse before the open seaJun 2026
- Lahinch, the wave that taught Ireland to surfJun 2026
- Barleycove, the empty beach at the end of west CorkJun 2026
- Silver Strand at Malin Beg, the stairs nobody talks aboutMar 2026
Wildlife
SubjectWine
SubjectWinter
Subject- Glendalough on a Tuesday in FebruaryJul 2026
- Hook Head, the oldest light in the world, in a winter stormJun 2026
- Dublin in DecemberMar 2026
- Dromoland in FebruaryJan 2026
- Kilkea with the fires litDec 2025
- Early December on Grafton StreetJul 2024
- New Year's Day on the coastJun 2024
- January in an empty castle hotelJun 2024
- + 1 more
Wood Fire
Subject
Y
1 entryYeats
Subject