Your best seat is by the window. The Nore flows dark below you, the castle's floodlights begin to glow across the water, and foot traffic crosses the bridge between the two. Kilkenny at dusk becomes a quiet stage, and this window offers a privileged view.
Savor one or two stouts, then take a calm walk up the Medieval Mile. The city turns down its volume after eight, and the Guinness here reflects that calm.