The Long Way RoundNotebook No 109May 2025
Beara's mountain road, twenty minutes that takes an hour.
Collected by Deborah. Read her editorial perspective
We often suggest you allow a full hour for the Healy Pass, despite its winding ascent from Adrigole spanning only twelve kilometers. This is not a road to rush; it is for savoring each turn and letting the landscape reveal itself to you. To truly appreciate it, you should expect to pause.
Slea Head
At the summit, a small carpark lets you stop at the cross for a moment of quiet contemplation. From there, it is only a few paces to the Cork-Kerry border stone, a small marker signifying passage from one county to another. The air up there carries the scent of mountain heather.
If your itinerary allows, experience the Healy Pass as the light softens to gold.
The Ireland Edit Way
Cut the itinerary in half, then cut it again. The letter we send before every first visit.
Every hotel change costs you half a day. Luxury, in Ireland, is staying put.
Six questions we apply before booking any room in Ireland. The November test, the dinner-twice test, the landscape-over-room test.
To understand Ireland, stop looking at the castles and start looking at the kitchen table.
From the notebook
Collected notes. A few times each season.