The Older RoomsNotebook No 112May 2026
The upper lake before the car park fills.
Collected by Deborah. Read her editorial perspective
We advocate for a Glendalough visit that commences long before the tour buses descend. Arriving by seven provides a rare glimpse of the monastic site: the round tower diffused by morning mist, the lake's surface undisturbed, and the path to Poulanass still vacant. This early start delivers a visual tranquility that noon never can.
Once you leave your car at the Education Centre, you can walk directly into this serene landscape. By the time the typical day-tripping crowds begin to fill the valley, you will already be on the green road above the upper lake, enjoying views many visitors never experience. Our early morning strategy ensures a genuine connection with the landscape.
Afterward, head to the Wicklow Heather in Laragh for breakfast, then drive the Military Road south while the morning remains yours.
The Ireland Edit Way
Cut the itinerary in half, then cut it again. The letter we send before every first visit.
Every hotel change costs you half a day. Luxury, in Ireland, is staying put.
Six questions we apply before booking any room in Ireland. The November test, the dinner-twice test, the landscape-over-room test.
To understand Ireland, stop looking at the castles and start looking at the kitchen table.
From the notebook
Collected notes. A few times each season.