The Cities, Walked EarlyNotebook No 18September 2024
Antrim's beech avenue, taken before seven in the morning.
Collected by Deborah. Read her editorial perspective
Approaching the Dark Hedges before seven, the morning mist still clung to the gnarled beech branches planted by the Stuart family. For a fleeting interval, the ancient avenue, now globally recognized from its screen appearances, was ours alone. We found a deep stillness in that early hour.
Dublin (Trinity
The road itself remains closed to vehicle traffic, which allows for an uninterrupted passage along its length. This early morning timing grants you the infrequent chance to experience these mature trees without the typical crush of visitors, a practical consideration for those seeking a tranquil and unhurried survey. We traversed its path once, absorbing the cool air.
A timely return to Bushmills for breakfast concludes your solitary encounter.
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The Ireland Edit Way
Cut the itinerary in half, then cut it again. The letter we send before every first visit.
Every hotel change costs you half a day. Luxury, in Ireland, is staying put.
Six questions we apply before booking any room in Ireland. The November test, the dinner-twice test, the landscape-over-room test.
To understand Ireland, stop looking at the castles and start looking at the kitchen table.
From the notebook
Collected notes. A few times each season.