The Notebook

After RainNotebook No 142June 2026

Hook Head, the oldest light in the world, in a winter storm

An eight-hundred-year-old working lighthouse on the Wexford coast, visited when the Atlantic is honest about itself.

Collected by Deborah. Read her editorial perspective

We visit Hook Head, that narrow promontory of black limestone, in winter, for the raw conditions. This is when the Atlantic genuinely flexes its power, not a time for gentle breezes. Here stands the oldest operational lighthouse anywhere, a sentinel built in the 1200s, its beam still sweeping, its foghorn still bellowing, refusing the fate of a mere relic.

Hook Head, the oldest light in the world, in a winter storm

Everywhere

Our preferred visit involves a January or February day with a forecast promising significant wind and ocean spray. We recommend arriving from Wexford town, perhaps after a meal at the lighthouse visitor center, timing your walk along the rocks for the hour following high tide. This is when the swell's roar reaches its peak and the spray explodes over the exposed stone.

To us, the Hook on a blustery Tuesday in February, with the wind singing through the iron railings, is a direct expression of Ireland.

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From the notebook

Editorial itineraries from Ireland.

Collected notes. A few times each season.