At the TableNotebook No 48April 2025
Keelan Higgs's room, when Dublin starts cooking like itself.
Collected by Deborah. Read her editorial perspective
Dublin dining has matured, but Variety Jones on Thomas Street demonstrated what unadorned, confident cooking could be. This restaurant signaled a shift: exceptional plates do not require affectation. It is a landmark for those who value authentic flavor over ornamentation.
Dublin (Chapter One
To fully experience the place, reserve a counter seat and trust the kitchen's selections. Whatever the wood oven yields represents the culinary team at their most earnest and compelling. This is where the core of the restaurant, and of Dublin's culinary maturation, truly becomes apparent.
After dinner, a private car will take you to your hotel. We consider it an essential Dublin evening.
The Ireland Edit Way
Cut the itinerary in half, then cut it again. The letter we send before every first visit.
Every hotel change costs you half a day. Luxury, in Ireland, is staying put.
Six questions we apply before booking any room in Ireland. The November test, the dinner-twice test, the landscape-over-room test.
To understand Ireland, stop looking at the castles and start looking at the kitchen table.
From the notebook
Collected notes. A few times each season.