The Long Way RoundNotebook No 64August 2025
The smallest of the south-west peninsulas, and the best for an afternoon.
Collected by Deborah. Read her editorial perspective
We frequently gravitate toward the Sheep’s Head, the most compact of the southwest peninsulas, situated quietly between Bantry Bay and Dunmanus Bay. A single ribbon of tarmac traces the peninsula’s spine, ending at an unassuming lighthouse that stands watch over the Atlantic. From the car park, a brief twenty-minute walk brings you directly to the light.
Slea Head
By mid-afternoon, usually around three o’clock, a cool wind begins to move in from the sea. We always pack a thermos of something warm, a small solace against the elements as we observe the landscape, anticipating this chill.
This is the most understated drive in all of County Cork.
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The Ireland Edit Way
Cut the itinerary in half, then cut it again. The letter we send before every first visit.
Every hotel change costs you half a day. Luxury, in Ireland, is staying put.
Six questions we apply before booking any room in Ireland. The November test, the dinner-twice test, the landscape-over-room test.
To understand Ireland, stop looking at the castles and start looking at the kitchen table.
From the notebook
Collected notes. A few times each season.