The oysters here are Kelly Oysters, farmed half a mile out in Aughinish Bay by the Kelly family since 1962. They are the Pacific rock (Crassostrea gigas), graded by size, lifted that morning. We order a dozen, no sauce, with the bottle of Muscadet they keep cold for the purpose. Deborah loves this place because nothing about it has been styled. The bar is the bar. The oysters arrive on a tin tray. The seagull on the post outside the window has been there for years.
Come on a Wednesday in May, sit outside at four in the afternoon, watch the Burren change colour across the bay. A dozen Kellys, the cold Muscadet, a walk afterwards along the pier to the small Martello tower. This is the lunch we book when we want to remind ourselves why we live here.