The Boyne Valley Edit

The best day out from Dublin, and the one most visitors mishandle

We have taken more visiting Americans to the Boyne Valley than to anywhere else in Ireland, because it is forty minutes from Dublin Airport and holds five thousand years of history in a loop you can drive in a day. We have also watched more people get it wrong here than anywhere else, and the mistake is always the same one: turning up at Newgrange without a ticket.

You cannot drive to Newgrange. Access to the monument is only by timed shuttle bus from the Bru na Boinne visitor centre at Donore, tickets are limited, and in summer the day sells out by mid-morning. Book online, days ahead, and build the rest of the loop around the slot you get.

Do that one thing and the valley opens up. Newgrange in the morning, lunch in Slane, Trim Castle or the Hill of Tara in the afternoon, and you are back in Dublin for dinner having seen something genuinely older than Stonehenge and the pyramids at Giza.

The four anchors, and what each is actually for

The valley is not one site. It is four, spread across Meath and Louth, and they do different jobs.

Bru na Boinne

Newgrange and Knowth, built around 3200 BC. Newgrange is the one with the roof box, where light enters the passage at the winter solstice, and inside the chamber the guide simulates it. Knowth has the largest collection of megalithic art in western Europe and about a third of the crowd. If you can only do one, do Newgrange. If you have time, do both.

The Hill of Tara

The ceremonial seat of the High Kings of Ireland. It is a field with earthworks and a standing stone, and it is free, unstaffed and quietly overwhelming if you walk it slowly. Come here after Newgrange, not before, or the scale will not land.

Trim Castle

The largest Anglo-Norman castle in Ireland, built from 1172, and the keep interior is only accessible on a guided tour that is worth the wait. Braveheart was filmed here, which is the fact every American guide leads with and the least interesting thing about it.

Monasterboice and Mellifont

In County Louth, twenty minutes north. Monasterboice holds Muiredach's High Cross, the finest carved high cross in Ireland, standing in a small graveyard with no entry fee and usually nobody in it. Mellifont was the first Cistercian abbey in the country.

Booking Newgrange, step by step

Tickets are sold through the Office of Public Works for the Bru na Boinne visitor centre, and the combined Newgrange and Knowth ticket is the one to buy. Choose the earliest slot available. The valley empties by four but the visitor centre queue peaks at eleven.

The chamber tour is small, the passage is narrow and low, and there are steps and uneven stone throughout. Anyone with claustrophobia should know that in advance rather than discovering it in the passage. Knowth is not entered at all, so it is the accessible half of the visit.

The winter solstice lottery is separate. Every year tens of thousands of people enter a draw for a handful of places inside the chamber on the mornings around 21 December. You do not need to be inside to enjoy the solstice, and the simulated version on the standard tour is honest about being a simulation.

Driving the valley, honestly

The Boyne Valley is forty minutes from Dublin Airport on the M1, which makes it the single best first day in Ireland for a jet-lagged arrival. You get a real site, a short drive and an early dinner, and you are not attempting the west coast on no sleep.

Inside the valley the roads are small but easy. Donore to Slane is ten minutes, Slane to Tara twenty, Tara to Trim twenty-five, and Drogheda to Monasterboice fifteen. There is no stretch of it that will frighten a new left-hand driver.

Parking at the Hill of Tara is a small roadside lot that fills on sunny weekends. Go on a weekday morning if you can, and wear boots, because the field is a field.