The Cities, Walked EarlyNotebook No 32December 2024
The river side, the rose garden, the long room at the back.
Collected by Deborah. Read her editorial perspective
We found a quiet solace at Kilkenny Castle on a Thursday in November, a version of the estate that many visitors overlook. The extensive grounds, always open to the public without charge, carried a crisp stillness. Inside, the Long Gallery was empty, allowing for unhurried contemplation.
Dublin (Trinity
You should wander down to the riverside, where the low November light gleams on the water, before crossing to the Butler Gallery for contemporary art. After your visit, a casual lunch at Mocha's by the gate completes the afternoon. We especially appreciate their warm-baked goods on a chilly day.
This uncrowded experience merits an overnight stay at Mount Juliet.
Continue reading
The Ireland Edit Way
Cut the itinerary in half, then cut it again. The letter we send before every first visit.
Every hotel change costs you half a day. Luxury, in Ireland, is staying put.
Six questions we apply before booking any room in Ireland. The November test, the dinner-twice test, the landscape-over-room test.
To understand Ireland, stop looking at the castles and start looking at the kitchen table.
From the notebook
Collected notes. A few times each season.