The Notebook

The Long Evening of SummerNotebook No 129June 2026

Brittas Bay, the hour before the cars come back

Wicklow's long pale beach, taken early, before Dublin arrives.

Collected by Deborah. Read her editorial perspective

At midday in July, Brittas Bay fills with sun-seekers from Dublin, but we assure you, this is not the ideal time for your visit. While the three miles of soft pale sand and high dunes remain, the car parks will be full, and the calm Irish Sea will be dotted with families. We prefer a quieter intimacy with this coastal expanse.

For us, the early hours hold the true allure of Brittas Bay. At seven in the morning, the dunes are empty, the tide often receded, and the beach stretches endlessly, inviting an undisturbed walk where you might encounter only a few others. The low light paints the sea like brushed steel, a quiet prelude before the day's first arrivals break the morning's peace. The other ideal time is October, when the crowds have departed.

The autumn wind lends Brittas its character for a long, bracing walk, a reward best followed by a fire and a pint at the Tinakilly or the Hunter's.

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From the notebook

Editorial itineraries from Ireland.

Collected notes. A few times each season.