We find ourselves going before nine, observing the regulars already in the water. Older men in their togs and goggles, women with woolen hats pulled low, and a handful of teenagers take turns from the higher rocks. There is a quiet understanding among them as they undress on the steps and descend into the cold water.
There is a striking absence of ceremony and convenience here for you: no lifeguard, no flags, no kiosk. The reward is not the swim itself, but the ten minutes afterward, sharing a flask of tea on the rocks while watching the light rise over Howth.