The Notebook

Off-Season IrelandNotebook No 156July 2026

Glendalough on a Tuesday in February

The upper lake when the coach park is empty and the head goes quiet.

Collected by Deborah. Read her editorial perspective

We often think of Glendalough's quieter form, one many visitors overlook. This is not the version you encounter on a peak summer afternoon, with tour buses filling the car park and the round tower surrounded by people. This is the Glendalough of a Tuesday in February, when your heavy coat feels right and the upper lake reflects the cold sky. On these days, the only sound on the path is the water cascading from the cliff behind you.

We suggest parking at the upper lake car park, bypassing the visitor center altogether. Begin your walk on the boardwalk, taking your time, then follow the loop along the south side of the lake. This entire circuit is roughly ninety minutes, allowing for pauses to simply exist in the landscape. The valley itself provides the calm your mind seeks in the quiet of a Wicklow winter.

Drive to your hotel by mid-afternoon, before the early light fades. A warm bath, a crackling fire, and an early dinner will complete a truly restorative day.

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From the notebook

Editorial itineraries from Ireland.

Collected notes. A few times each season.