The Notebook

The Long Way RoundNotebook No 113May 2026

The Mournes when the bracken turns

C.S. Lewis country, on the week the colour comes in.

Collected by Deborah. Read her editorial perspective

The Mourne Mountains hold an outsized place in memory for us, an expanse C.S. Lewis drew on when creating Narnia. The drive from Newcastle to Spelga, and then down to Hilltown, takes only forty minutes but feels much longer, unfolding with a compelling sense of scale. We often take this route ourselves, appreciating the unfolding landscape.

The Mournes when the bracken turns

Slea Head

Mid-October is our recommendation to visit; it is when the bracken begins to show its rust tones. Sheep still graze at higher elevations then, and the slate faces of Slieve Donard take on a deep blue hue in the late afternoon light. Pull into the lay-by above Silent Valley before descending into Kilkeel; the view is worth your pause.

Stay a night at the Slieve Donard, and walk the beach when the tide is out. The North delivers its autumn quietly, and the Mournes are the part to drive.

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From the notebook

Editorial itineraries from Ireland.

Collected notes. A few times each season.

Last reviewed by the editors of The Ireland Edit