The Notebook

The Older RoomsNotebook No 21October 2024

The Aran Islands on a bicycle

Inis Mór in a single afternoon, hired wheels and the wind behind you.

Collected by Deborah. Read her editorial perspective

You should rise with the sun to take the morning ferry from Rossaveal, watching the mainland fade as Inis Mór appears. Ashore, we suggest you secure bicycles without delay, allowing the wind to carry you towards the ancient ramparts of Dún Aonghasa. This island is best explored on two wheels, and you will make excellent time.

The Aran Islands on a bicycle

Brú na Bóinne

After absorbing the scale of the Dún, we recommend returning your bicycles and settling into Joe Watty’s. There, you can recount your journey over fresh seafood, the conversation punctuated by laughter. This rhythm permits you to experience the island fully, from its dramatic cliffs to its welcoming pubs, all before the day concludes.

By the time you board the four o'clock boat back to Rossaveal, you will have seen the entire island, feeling refreshed and invigorated. This is the most efficient way to experience the wild character of such Irish islands.

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From the notebook

Editorial itineraries from Ireland.

Collected notes. A few times each season.