The Notebook

At the TableNotebook No 144June 2026

PJ O'Hare's, the Carlingford Lough half dozen

A blackened pub on the medieval main street of Carlingford, serving the lough's own oysters with a pint of stout and very little else.

Collected by Deborah. Read her editorial perspective

We drive an hour north out of Dublin, past Drogheda, and turn east at Dundalk for the Cooley Peninsula. Carlingford sits on the south shore of the lough, a Norman village of three streets and one castle, with the Mourne Mountains rising directly across the water in County Down. PJ O'Hare's, known locally as The Anchor Bar, has stood on the main street since 1885. Dark wood, low ceiling, a coal fire kept lit from October.

PJ O'Hare's, the Carlingford Lough half dozen

Dublin (Chapter One

The oysters are Carlingford Lough Pacific rock (Crassostrea gigas), pulled from trestles ten minutes' drive away, where the lough's brackish water (sea coming in, mountain rivers coming down) gives them a clean, cucumber-finish brininess we have not tasted anywhere else in Ireland. Deborah orders the half dozen and a pint of Guinness, sits at the small table inside the front door, and considers this one of the most underrated lunches in the country. No tourists. No mignonette. The barman shucks them himself.

Pair the visit with a walk up the Slieve Foye loop above the village, or the seven-minute ferry across to Greencastle on the northern shore. Stay the night at Ghan House, the Georgian on the edge of the village, and come back to the Anchor for a second half dozen before dinner.

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From the notebook

Editorial itineraries from Ireland.

Collected notes. A few times each season.