The Long Way RoundNotebook No 61July 2025
Kerry's narrow valley, walked rather than driven.
Collected by Deborah. Read her editorial perspective
We find few travel days more grounding than traversing the Gap of Dunloe on foot. This seven-mile journey begins at Kate Kearney’s Cottage, where you park before tracing the road up and over the pass. The passage ends with a boat journey back through the interconnected lakes, returning you to your waiting vehicle near the cottage.
Slea Head
Midway, you can stop for cold drinks and a simple meal at the cottage situated at the Gap’s summit. This provides a welcome pause before you continue your descent to meet your awaiting boat. The entire experience unfolds at a measured, agreeable cadence, easily filling a half-day.
For those seeking a true Kerry day that avoids the often-trafficked Ring, this is the most satisfying option we have found.
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The Ireland Edit Way
Cut the itinerary in half, then cut it again. The letter we send before every first visit.
Every hotel change costs you half a day. Luxury, in Ireland, is staying put.
Six questions we apply before booking any room in Ireland. The November test, the dinner-twice test, the landscape-over-room test.
To understand Ireland, stop looking at the castles and start looking at the kitchen table.
From the notebook
Collected notes. A few times each season.