The Notebook
Seasonal Notes, from the notebook.
Everything we have filed under seasonal notes: what we saw, where we stayed, and what we would do differently.
Seasonal Notes
Entry No. 01
Off-Season Ireland
Glendalough on a Tuesday in February
The upper lake when the coach park is empty and the head goes quiet.
Entry No. 02
The Long Evening of Summer
Slea Head in June, when the light refuses to go
The Dingle Peninsula on a long evening, the Blaskets pink offshore, and the closest thing Ireland has to a summer miracle.
Entry No. 03
At the Edge of the Atlantic
Donegal when the light breaks
The northwest after a long week of weather.
Entry No. 04
Off-Season Ireland
Rock of Cashel out of season
Tipperary's medieval skyline, on the right kind of November afternoon.
Entry No. 05
Off-Season Ireland
October in West Cork
The single best month in the single best corner.
Entry No. 06
The Long Evening of Summer
May on the Wild Atlantic Way
Long days, low crowds, the light still soft.
Entry No. 07
At the Edge of the Atlantic
June light in the west
When the sun doesn't go down until eleven.
Entry No. 08
The Long Evening of Summer
A July afternoon in Connemara
When the bog colours turn and the heather catches.
Entry No. 09
At the Edge of the Atlantic
August in Donegal
When the rest of Ireland is on holiday and Donegal is the best version of itself.
Entry No. 10
The Long Way Round
September in Kinsale
After the Gourmet Festival, when the harbour goes back to itself.
Entry No. 11
At the Edge of the Atlantic
Early October in the Burren
When the limestone darkens and the gentians have finished.
Entry No. 12
Off-Season Ireland
Late October in Kerry
When the deer rut is on at Killarney and the lakes go dark.
Entry No. 13
Off-Season Ireland
November in Dublin
The four o'clock dusk and the bookshop windows lit early.
Entry No. 14
Off-Season Ireland
Early December on Grafton Street
Before the office parties start and the city is at its best.
Entry No. 15
Off-Season Ireland
Christmas week in an Irish country house
Ashford or Dromoland, when the fires are lit all day.
Entry No. 16
Off-Season Ireland
New Year's Day on the coast
The walk every Irish family takes, somewhere with the sea.
Entry No. 17
Off-Season Ireland
January in an empty castle hotel
When the rates are kindest and the staff have time.
Entry No. 18
At the Edge of the Atlantic
February in West Cork
Storm-watching and the first signs of spring on the same day.
Entry No. 19
At the Edge of the Atlantic
March light in the Burren
The first week of long evenings, before the season starts.
Entry No. 20
The Drawing Room Hour
Early April on the Causeway coast
Before the Easter crowds, when the cliffs are yours.
Entry No. 21
Off-Season Ireland
Easter week in Galway
The Latin Quarter, the bay walk, and the festivals starting up.
From the notebook
Editorial itineraries from Ireland.
Collected notes. A few times each season.