A Notebook pathway
Walking Notes
Fragments from walks already taken. Roads after rain, paths before dinner, Atlantic light, the country read on foot.
An editorial collection
After rain
moments
The biggest mistake Americans make in Irish pubs
The mistake is not ordering the wrong beer. It is treating the pub as a sight to be ticked off instead of a room to be inhabited.
moments
What I tell every American friend before their first trip
An expat's letter to the next visitor. The expectations to set, the mistakes to avoid, and the version of Ireland that only opens for those who slow down.
hotels
Cashel Palace, the garden suite in October
A small house, a long bath, and the Rock through the window when the rain clears.
moments
The Difference Between Hospitality And Service
The best Irish hotels are not trying to impress you. They are trying to make you feel like you belong.
An editorial collection
Atlantic walks
moments
The biggest mistake Americans make in Irish pubs
The mistake is not ordering the wrong beer. It is treating the pub as a sight to be ticked off instead of a room to be inhabited.
moments
What I tell every American friend before their first trip
An expat's letter to the next visitor. The expectations to set, the mistakes to avoid, and the version of Ireland that only opens for those who slow down.
moments
Guinness in Kilkenny, by the Nore
Tynan's Bridge House at dusk, with the castle floodlights coming on across the water.
moments
Guinness in Dingle, at Dick Mack's
Across the road from the church, a leather counter, and a pint that tastes of weather.
An editorial collection
Roads taken slowly
moments
The biggest mistake Americans make in Irish pubs
The mistake is not ordering the wrong beer. It is treating the pub as a sight to be ticked off instead of a room to be inhabited.
moments
What I tell every American friend before their first trip
An expat's letter to the next visitor. The expectations to set, the mistakes to avoid, and the version of Ireland that only opens for those who slow down.
moments
Guinness in Dingle, at Dick Mack's
Across the road from the church, a leather counter, and a pint that tastes of weather.
moments
Guinness in Belfast, at the Crown
A Victorian snug, a gas lamp, and a pint that knows the building it is in.
An editorial collection
Walks before dinner
moments
The biggest mistake Americans make in Irish pubs
The mistake is not ordering the wrong beer. It is treating the pub as a sight to be ticked off instead of a room to be inhabited.
moments
What I tell every American friend before their first trip
An expat's letter to the next visitor. The expectations to set, the mistakes to avoid, and the version of Ireland that only opens for those who slow down.
moments
Guinness in Kilkenny, by the Nore
Tynan's Bridge House at dusk, with the castle floodlights coming on across the water.
hotels
Adare Manor, the hour before dinner
The drawing rooms at six, when the house exhales and the guests have not yet come down.
An editorial collection
Quiet Ireland
moments
The biggest mistake Americans make in Irish pubs
The mistake is not ordering the wrong beer. It is treating the pub as a sight to be ticked off instead of a room to be inhabited.
moments
What I tell every American friend before their first trip
An expat's letter to the next visitor. The expectations to set, the mistakes to avoid, and the version of Ireland that only opens for those who slow down.
moments
Guinness in Kilkenny, by the Nore
Tynan's Bridge House at dusk, with the castle floodlights coming on across the water.
moments
Guinness in Dingle, at Dick Mack's
Across the road from the church, a leather counter, and a pint that tastes of weather.
An editorial collection
Stone walls and sea air
moments
The biggest mistake Americans make in Irish pubs
The mistake is not ordering the wrong beer. It is treating the pub as a sight to be ticked off instead of a room to be inhabited.
moments
What I tell every American friend before their first trip
An expat's letter to the next visitor. The expectations to set, the mistakes to avoid, and the version of Ireland that only opens for those who slow down.
moments
Guinness in Belfast, at the Crown
A Victorian snug, a gas lamp, and a pint that knows the building it is in.
hotels
Cashel Palace, the garden suite in October
A small house, a long bath, and the Rock through the window when the rain clears.
Walk slowly. Read slowly. Return often.