The Notebook

Hotels, from the notebook.

Everything we have filed under hotels: what we saw, where we stayed, and what we would do differently.

Hotels

Cashel Palace, the garden suite in October

Entry No. 01

The Drawing Room Hour

Cashel Palace, the garden suite in October

A small house, a long bath, and the Rock through the window when the rain clears.

TipperaryCountry houseSlowAutumnHoneymoon
Adare Manor, the hour before dinner

Entry No. 02

The Drawing Room Hour

Adare Manor, the hour before dinner

The drawing rooms at six, when the house exhales and the guests have not yet come down.

LimerickCountry houseSlowHoneymoonGolf
Sheen Falls, the second night

Entry No. 03

The Drawing Room Hour

Sheen Falls, the second night

When the staff stop asking and the room starts to know you.

KerryCountry houseSlowRiversideHoneymoon
The folded blanket at Ballyfin

Entry No. 04

The Drawing Room Hour

The folded blanket at Ballyfin

What nobody mentions about the room, and why it is the point.

BallyfinCountry houseSlowHoneymoon
Mount Stewart, the walled garden in early summer

Entry No. 05

The Drawing Room Hour

Mount Stewart, the walled garden in early summer

A National Trust house on the shore of Strangford Lough, with a microclimate warm enough to grow what nowhere else in Ireland can.

County DownMount StewartGardensStrangfordNorthern Ireland
Ashford Castle, when the lake goes still

Entry No. 06

The Drawing Room Hour

Ashford Castle, when the lake goes still

Eight hundred years on Lough Corrib, and the hour that earns the trip.

CastleMayoSlowLake light
Rooms where the windows stay open to the sea

Entry No. 07

The Drawing Room Hour

Rooms where the windows stay open to the sea

Ballynahinch Castle, in the small hours.

SlowCastleRiversideWest
Hotels for weather

Entry No. 08

The Drawing Room Hour

Hotels for weather

What you actually want when the rain sets in for the day.

Rainy dayCastleSlowCosy
The Merrion on a quiet Tuesday

Entry No. 09

The Drawing Room Hour

The Merrion on a quiet Tuesday

What the drawing rooms feel like when no one is checking in.

DublinGrand hotelSlowAfternoon tea
Adare Manor after the leaves turn

Entry No. 10

The Drawing Room Hour

Adare Manor after the leaves turn

The week the village goes quiet and the manor opens up.

LimerickManorAutumnSlow
Cashel Palace, the first morning

Entry No. 11

The Drawing Room Hour

Cashel Palace, the first morning

Breakfast under the Rock, before anyone else is up.

TipperaryRestoredBreakfastSlow
Mount Juliet for a long weekend

Entry No. 12

The Drawing Room Hour

Mount Juliet for a long weekend

When you want golf, food and a fire, on the same estate.

KilkennyEstateGolfCountry house
The K Club after the rain

Entry No. 13

The Drawing Room Hour

The K Club after the rain

The Liffey course in the half-hour the sun comes back.

KildareGolf resortLiffeyNear Dublin
Sheen Falls when the river rises

Entry No. 14

The Drawing Room Hour

Sheen Falls when the river rises

Kenmare in November, the falls running full.

KerryRiversideAutumnSlow
Powerscourt, from the upper terrace

Entry No. 15

The Drawing Room Hour

Powerscourt, from the upper terrace

The Sugar Loaf framed exactly the way the architects meant it.

WicklowSpaGardensNear Dublin
The Shelbourne, properly

Entry No. 16

The Drawing Room Hour

The Shelbourne, properly

How to stay in the room everyone walks past.

DublinGrand hotelStephen's GreenClassic
Dromoland in February

Entry No. 17

The Drawing Room Hour

Dromoland in February

When the lake is still and the dining room is half full.

ClareCastleWinterLakeside
Lough Eske on a long evening

Entry No. 18

The Long Evening of Summer

Lough Eske on a long evening

Donegal in June, the lake taking the light.

DonegalLakesideSummerCastle
Kilkea with the fires lit

Entry No. 19

The Drawing Room Hour

Kilkea with the fires lit

Kildare in the dark months, a castle that takes you in.

KildareCastleWinterFires
The Europe Hotel, the third morning

Entry No. 20

The Drawing Room Hour

The Europe Hotel, the third morning

Killarney's lake from a balcony, taken slowly.

KerryLakesideSpaSlow
Carton House for two quiet nights

Entry No. 21

The Drawing Room Hour

Carton House for two quiet nights

The Fairmont rebuild, settled in at last.

KildareEstateGolfNear Dublin
Ballyfin, the third evening

Entry No. 22

The Drawing Room Hour

Ballyfin, the third evening

When the house finally stops feeling like a museum.

LaoisCountry houseSlowAll-inclusive
The Bushmills Inn after dark

Entry No. 23

The Drawing Room Hour

The Bushmills Inn after dark

Antrim in October, the gas lamps and a peat fire.

AntrimInnWhiskeyCauseway
Ballygally Castle with the sea in the window

Entry No. 24

The Drawing Room Hour

Ballygally Castle with the sea in the window

The Antrim coast, from a window cut into stone.

AntrimCastleCoastalCauseway
The Merchant in the Cathedral Quarter

Entry No. 25

The Drawing Room Hour

The Merchant in the Cathedral Quarter

Belfast's grandest room, used the way it was meant to be.

BelfastGrand hotelAfternoon teaCity
Grand Central Belfast as a base

Entry No. 26

The Drawing Room Hour

Grand Central Belfast as a base

The view from the twenty-third floor, after the city goes quiet.

BelfastCityViewModern
Doonbeg, the morning room

Entry No. 27

The Drawing Room Hour

Doonbeg, the morning room

West Clare from a window, before the wind picks up.

ClareLinksGolfAtlantic
Portmarnock by the sea

Entry No. 28

The Drawing Room Hour

Portmarnock by the sea

The Jameson family house, then the resort, then the dunes.

DublinCoastLinksNear airport
Waterford Castle on its own island

Entry No. 29

The Drawing Room Hour

Waterford Castle on its own island

Sixteenth century, Norman and accessible only by ferry.

WaterfordCastleIslandNorman
Clontarf Castle for one Dublin night

Entry No. 30

The Drawing Room Hour

Clontarf Castle for one Dublin night

A castle inside the city limits, twelve minutes from the airport.

DublinCastleNear airportCity
Markree Castle in Sligo

Entry No. 31

The Drawing Room Hour

Markree Castle in Sligo

Yeats country, with the Cooper family still on the door.

SligoCastleYeatsFamily-run
Ballyseede in Tralee

Entry No. 32

The Drawing Room Hour

Ballyseede in Tralee

The drawing room dogs and the late dinner.

KerryCastleFamily-runTralee
Cabra Castle in the banquet hall

Entry No. 33

The Drawing Room Hour

Cabra Castle in the banquet hall

Cavan, the eighteenth century kept honestly.

CavanCastleHeritageSlow

From the notebook

Editorial itineraries from Ireland.

Collected notes. A few times each season.