Seafood · The week

Seven nights, driven around the shellfish

Howth to Kinsale to Dingle to the oyster coast, in season, with the drives, the counters and the rooms.

Drive it between September and April if the native oysters matter to you, and between May and September if the boats and the weather do. The route never doubles back, and two of the best meals on it are cooked by you in a rented kitchen.

Day by day

  1. Day 1 · County Dublin

    Howth, before the city

    Thirty minutes from the airport, and no city traffic.

    • A pier counter at Howth for crab claws and a glass of white.
    • Dinner above the harbour, with the boats still working below.

    Starting at the harbour rather than in town sets the week up honestly. The fish in Dublin restaurants comes through here anyway.

    Reserve this day

    • Room

      Deer Park Hotel Howth

      Above the harbour that lands the fish, and thirty minutes from the airport.

    • Guided day

      Howth coastal seafood and craft beer trail

      Eating along a working pier. Book the early slot and keep the evening free.

  2. Day 2 · Kinsale, County Cork

    South to Kinsale

    Three hours on the M8, then twenty minutes west of Cork.

    • Lunch at the English Market fish stalls on the way through Cork.
    • Dinner on a Kinsale side street: hake, brill, whatever came in.

    Two nights here rather than one. The town rewards a slow second morning more than any other stop on the route.

    Reserve this day

  3. Day 3 · Kinsale

    West Cork counters

    An hour each way along the coast.

    • A smokehouse visit, and a kilo of mussels bought for the evening.
    • Cook them yourself in cider and cream if the room has a kitchen.

    The cheapest and best meal of the week costs about the price of two coffees. Buy the shellfish the afternoon you cook it.

    Reserve this day

    • Counter or market

      Ummera Smokehouse

      Timoleague, an hour west. Call ahead: it is a small operation, not a visitor centre.

    • Counter or market

      Kilmore Quay Seafood

      Buy the mussels the afternoon you cook them, never the day before.

  4. Day 4 · Dingle, County Kerry

    Dingle, and the boats

    Three hours north west. Slea Head in the late afternoon.

    • Fish and chips on the harbour wall, which is not a compromise here.
    • Dinner in one of two small rooms that cook only what landed.

    Dingle is the one town where the pub, the pier and the kitchen are the same short walk. Book the dinner, walk to everything else.

    Reserve this day

    • Room

      Dingle Skellig Hotel

      On the water at the edge of town, and walkable to the pier rooms.

    • Table

      Out of the Blue

      No fish landed, no opening. Reserve, then call the morning of to confirm.

  5. Day 5 · Clarenbridge or Galway

    North to the oyster coast

    Three and a half hours through Limerick and Gort.

    • Native oysters and brown bread at a thatched cottage on the bay.
    • A late supper in Galway, lighter than it sounds after the afternoon.

    September to April is the native oyster window. Outside it you are eating the farmed rock oyster, which is good, not the same.

    Reserve this day

    • Table

      Moran's Oyster Cottage

      Seven generations on Galway Bay. Natives September to April, oysters first, claws second.

    • Room

      Glenlo Abbey Hotel

      Twenty minutes from the oyster coast and the right side of Galway for the morning drive.

  6. Day 6 · Connemara

    Connemara

    An hour west of Galway on slow roads. Leave the map alone.

    • An oyster farm visit at low tide, waders provided.
    • Dinner in a country house dining room, langoustines first.

    The single best day on the week, and the one people cut when they overload the front end. Protect it.

    Reserve this day

    • Room

      Ballynahinch Castle

      The best day on this week starts and ends here. Protect the two nights.

    • Guided day

      Private oyster tour and tasting by the Flaggy Shore

      Out to the beds at low tide with the people who grow them. Tide dependent, so book early in the week.

  7. Day 7 · Galway or Shannon

    The market, then the flight

    Ninety minutes to Shannon.

    • Galway market for the last plate, and vacuum-packed smoked salmon for the case.
    • Coffee at the airport, and nothing else. You have eaten enough.

    Smoked salmon, commercially sealed and labelled, travels home legally. Shellfish does not. Eat it here.

    Reserve this day

    • Counter or market

      Galway Market

      The last plate, and the vacuum-packed salmon for the case.

    • Counter or market

      Gannet Fishmongers

      The counter west of Ireland chefs name. Smoked and sealed travels home, fresh shellfish does not.

Build the trip around it

Where we would stay for a seafood trip

The weeks this fits inside

Book the week

What to reserve, and in what order

The Connemara room first, because there are few of them and they fill a season ahead. Then the two Dingle dinners. The oyster farm walk runs on the tide, so pick the day once the rooms are held, and leave the counters and the smokehouses entirely to chance.

Where to buy it: the fishmongers. What to cook in the rental: the four recipes. Why we order this way: the essay. Back to the seafood hub.