The Burren when the weather changes. The Burren, Co. Clare

The Burren · Co. Clare

The Burren when the weather changes

Limestone goes from white to lilac to grey in a single quarter hour.

Distance

As far as the light asks for

Pace

Slow. Then slower.

Weather

All four, often within a quarter hour

Best light

The fifteen minutes after a shower

An expat note from Deborah

The Burren is not a destination. It is a surface that responds to weather more theatrically than almost any landscape we know in Ireland.

You do not need to walk far. You need to walk slowly, and you need to be there when the cloud breaks.

We have watched American visitors arrive sceptical and leave converted. The Burren does that work itself.

How we'd actually walk it

The rhythm of the day.

  • 01Drive Black Head road. Stop wherever the light asks.
  • 02Walk twenty minutes off the road. Sit on a stone. Wait.
  • 03Lunch in Ballyvaughan or back at Gregans. Either is correct.

The hotel pairing

Gregans Castle Hotel

The right house in the right landscape. Book the bar for lunch.

Walk slowly. Bring a coat. Choose the hotel for the country at its door.