Emotional Pathway
Walking WestAn Editorial Pathway
The rhythm of the land beneath your feet.
“To understand the scale of the western landscape, you must leave the car. This pathway is dedicated to the rhythm of walking, across limestone pavements, along cliff edges, and through valleys carved by ice.”
Deborah Nunez
Mile six. The wind changes direction without warning.
From the trail
Notes written standing up, in poor handwriting.
Movement 01
The potters of West Cork
The second in our Makers of Ireland series: the studios along the Sheep's Head and in Kinsale where the tableware is still thrown, glazed and fired by hand.
Movement 02
The knitters of Inis Meáin
The third in our Makers of Ireland series: the island company that turned the Aran sweater into couture, and the Connemara shop that has outfitted the west for eighty years.
Movement 03
Westport, between the river and Clew Bay
The Mayo town that works best at walking pace: the Carrowbeg, an early dinner, and the bay waiting beyond the last Georgian street.
Movement 04
Erris and Belmullet: The Mullet Peninsula, North Mayo
Elly Bay, Belmullet and the Mullet Peninsula: the far north-western coast for travelers prepared to give Mayo a fourth day.
Movement 05
Guinness in Dingle, at Dick Mack's
Across the road from the church, a leather counter, and a pint that tastes of weather.
Movement 06
Guinness in Galway, before the match
Tigh Neachtain at one o'clock on a Saturday, when the city is already humming.
Atmosphere
"The west of Ireland is a country you understand only with your boots."
Base camp
Hotels that take wet boots, wet dogs, wet weather without comment.
Where to stay when you are walking the coast
Adare Manor
Where the boot room is taken seriously.
"The most complete luxury estate in Ireland. Tom Fazio golf, La Mer spa, and the Oak Room."
Ashford Castle
Drying cupboards. Boot brushes. Hot baths.
"800 years of history. Falconry, lake cruises, and the George V dining room."
Dromoland Castle
A late kitchen for walkers who lost the light.
"15 minutes from Shannon. Ideal first night. The warmth here is legendary."
Glendalough Hotel
A bar that is happy to see wet wool.
"A classic country inn at the gateway to Glendalough. Monks' ruins, mountain walks, and complete calm."
Boots off, peat fire, the day re-enters the body.
On foot
The walks the editors actually return to.
The walks that change you
The path behind Gregans Castle at dusk
The walk that begins at the door, and quietly becomes the part of the trip you remember.
Slea Head in Atlantic wind
Not a hike. A walk along a road the ocean keeps trying to take back.
The first ten minutes above Keem Bay
The road climbs and the sea opens like a curtain.
Walking back to Ballynahinch in fog
The trees lose their edges. The river is still there, audible. The hotel arrives gently, lit from within.
Earned
What to do once the day's miles are done.
After the walk
Private Cliffs of Moher Tour from Ennis
Leaving from Ennis rather than Dublin saves you six hours in a vehicle. That is the whole trick to the Cliffs of Moher, and almost nobody books it that way.
Aran Islands Food, Heritage & Cultural Tour
Goes far deeper than the usual ferry-and-bike day trip. You'll taste island food, hear local stories, and understand why people have lived on this rock for thousands of years.
ViewDingle Peninsula Four Hour Private Tour
Slea Head Drive is the most beautiful road in Ireland, and having a private guide means you'll stop at all the hidden spots most visitors miss.
ViewPrivate Ring of Kerry & Kerry Cliffs Tour
Starting in Killarney means you drive the Ring in the quiet direction, and the Kerry Cliffs stop is the one people remember long after the Ring itself.
ViewThe Library
A walking edition
Carry it folded in a coat pocket. It will get wet. That is the point.
A walking itinerary, properly paced
We help readers plan western walking trips that don't collapse on day three.
Contact the Editors