Food · The week

Seven nights, built around eating

Dublin to Cork to Kinsale to Galway, in the order the food makes sense, with the drives, the bookings and the rooms.

This is one week, not a menu of options. It moves in one direction, it never doubles back, and it leaves two evenings deliberately unbooked. Two dinners on it need reserving months ahead. Everything else can be decided the morning of.

Day by day

  1. Day 1 · Dublin

    Land in Dublin and eat like you live here

    Twenty five minutes from the airport. No car for two days.

    • Late lunch at a pub that cooks: chowder, brown bread, a pint of stout.
    • Dinner somewhere unfussy in the Liberties rather than the tasting counter. Jet lag ruins a long menu.

    The first night is the one people waste on an ambitious booking they cannot taste. Eat early, sleep, and spend the appetite tomorrow.

    Reserve this day

    • Room

      Clontarf Castle Hotel

      Fifteen minutes from the airport and out of the city noise. Book the room before anything else on the week.

    • Guided day

      Howth seafood and craft beer trail

      The best half day in Dublin for anybody who came for the sea. Runs most days, sells out at weekends.

  2. Day 2 · Dublin

    The Dublin table, properly

    On foot. Everything below is inside a half hour walk.

    • Morning at a bakery counter, then the Saturday market if the day lands right.
    • Dinner at the one Dublin room worth booking months ahead. Two courses of anything else in the city will not touch it.

    Book this dinner before you book the flights. It is the only reservation on the week that cannot be improvised.

    Reserve this day

    • Table

      Chapter One

      The one Dublin dinner to book before the flights. Reservations open about two months ahead and go the same week.

    • Counter or market

      Sheridans Cheesemongers

      Ask what is eating well this month and buy that. No booking, but check the trading hours.

  3. Day 3 · Cork City

    Drive south, eat in the English Market

    Two and a half hours on the M8. Collect the car after breakfast.

    • Lunch upstairs over the English Market, with the stalls below doing the shopping for you.
    • Dinner in Cork city, which cooks better than its reputation and charges less than Dublin.

    Cork is the best eating city on the island for the money. Two nights here beats one night in four different towns.

    Reserve this day

    • Room

      Hayfield Manor

      Ten minutes from the English Market and the right base for two Cork nights.

    • Counter or market

      The English Market

      Closed Sundays. Go before noon, then eat upstairs at the Farmgate over the stalls.

    • Table

      Farmgate Café

      Lunch on the balcony above the market. Walk-ins work midweek, book for a Saturday.

  4. Day 4 · Cork City or Shanagarry

    East Cork: the cookery school day

    Forty minutes east, and back the same evening.

    • A half day course or a garden walk at the cookery school, booked in advance.
    • Dinner in the house dining room, which changes daily with whatever the farm cut that morning.

    This is the day that explains modern Irish food. Everything else on the week is downstream of it.

    Reserve this day

    • Guided day

      Ballymaloe Cookery School day course

      Sells out further ahead than any dinner on the island. Book direct, months out.

    • Table

      Ballymaloe House dinner

      One menu, changed daily with whatever the farm cut that morning. Reserve when you book the course.

  5. Day 5 · Kinsale

    Kinsale, and the boats

    Fifty minutes south west of Cork.

    • Lunch off the pier: crab, hake, whatever landed.
    • Dinner in a small room on a narrow street, followed by a whiskey in a bar with a fire.

    Kinsale is the best-eating small town in Ireland, and it is small enough to walk between the three places that matter.

    Reserve this day

    • Room

      Perryville House

      Kinsale's best small house, and the boats are visible from the room. Twelve rooms only.

    • Table

      Fishy Fishy

      Book lunch rather than dinner and sit outside. Closed some winter days.

  6. Day 6 · Galway City

    West to Galway

    Three hours north through Limerick. Break it at a farm shop.

    • Oysters and a glass of stout at a counter on the way in.
    • Dinner at a fire-cooked Galway room, the loosest and most enjoyable meal of the week.

    Galway cooks with less ceremony and more nerve than anywhere else on the island. Come hungry and take the wine pairing.

    Reserve this day

    • Room

      Glenlo Abbey Hotel

      A base for Galway's restaurants without sleeping in the noise of them.

    • Guided day

      Galway Food Tours walking tasting

      Sheridans, the market and the bay's shellfish with a guide who knows the growers.

    • Table

      Aniar

      A Michelin star built on the west's shoreline. Eight weeks out, and take the pairing.

  7. Day 7 · Connemara or Shannon

    Connemara, then home

    Ninety minutes to Shannon for an afternoon flight, two hours back to Dublin.

    • Saturday market in Galway if the day allows, otherwise a long country house breakfast.
    • A last plate of smoked salmon before the airport, and a vacuum pack for the case.

    Fly out of Shannon rather than doubling back to Dublin. It buys you the whole final morning.

    Reserve this day

    • Counter or market

      Galway Market

      Saturday and Sunday beside St Nicholas' church. Worth reshuffling the flight for.

    • Counter or market

      Burren Smokehouse

      Vacuum-sealed oak-smoked salmon that travels home legally. On the road to Shannon.

Build the trip around it

Where we would stay for a food trip

The weeks this fits inside

Book the week

What to reserve, and in what order

Rooms first, because the good ones in Kinsale and East Cork go before the restaurants do. Then the two dinners that carry the week. Then the cookery school morning, which sells out earlier than any dinner on the island. Tours and market walks can wait until you land.

Where to eat on each leg: the dining guides. Costs, tipping and timing: the practical guide. Why we eat this way: the essay. Back to the food hub.