The cliff path near Doolin. Cliffs of Moher coast, Co. Clare

Cliffs of Moher coast · Co. Clare

The cliff path near Doolin

The Atlantic from the cliff path, before the visitor centre, before the crowds, before the photograph everyone takes.

Distance

Doolin to Hag's Head, in sections

Pace

Walk a section. Drive a section. Repeat.

Weather

Atlantic, always

Best light

Late afternoon, into the wind

An expat note from Deborah

The Cliffs of Moher, approached on foot from Doolin, are a different country from the cliffs approached from the car park. The first is a walk. The second is an event.

We always start at Doolin. Always. The walk earns the view.

A pint at McGann's afterward, with hair still in the wind, is the correct closing punctuation.

How we'd actually walk it

The rhythm of the day.

  • 01Park in Doolin. Walk north along the cliff path.
  • 02Turn back when the legs say so. Nobody finishes this walk and nobody minds.
  • 03Pub in Doolin. Drive on to the hotel before dark.

The hotel pairing

Gregans Castle Hotel

Forty minutes south. The right place to land after Atlantic weather.

Walk slowly. Bring a coat. Choose the hotel for the country at its door.