Seven Nights in Ireland · Day Seven of Eight

The Burren first, the Cliffs last

Everyone does the Cliffs of Moher at eleven in the morning and the Burren not at all. Invert both and you get the best last day on the route.

Dublin 2 nights, Kerry 3 nights, County Clare 2 nights. In through Dublin, out through Shannon.

This is one day from our seven night Ireland itinerary: two nights in Dublin, three in Kerry, two in County Clare, home from Shannon. Every venue, room category and booking requirement below was last checked on 29 August 2026.

A note from Deborah. Read her editorial perspective

The Burren. Arctic and Mediterranean flowers grow in the same limestone grike, which happens almost nowhere else on earth.

The Burren is 250 square kilometres of bare grey limestone in north Clare, and it is the strangest landscape in Ireland. A Cromwellian surveyor famously wrote that it had not enough water to drown a man, wood to hang one, nor earth to bury him. He was wrong about the last part: there are more than seventy megalithic tombs up there, and gentians and orchids growing in the cracks in the rock.

It sits directly between you and the Cliffs of Moher, and almost nobody stops. That is the whole opportunity of this day. Do the Burren in the morning when the light is flat and the rock looks like the moon, have lunch in Doolin or Ballyvaughan, and arrive at the Cliffs at five or six in the evening when the last coach has left and the light comes in sideways off the Atlantic.

The Drive

County Clare (Dromoland) to The Burren, the Cliffs, and back. 95 miles, about 7 hr door to door.

A loop, not a transfer. Most of the day is stopped.

  1. 9:30am

    North into the limestone

    Forty minutes from Dromoland the fields stop and the rock starts. The change is abrupt enough that people ask the driver to pull over for it. Take the coast road through Ballyvaughan if the weather is clear, which gives you Galway Bay on your right and the Aran Islands out on the horizon.

  2. 10:30am

    Poulnabrone, and the tombs

    Poulnabrone dolmen is a portal tomb built around 3800 BC, standing alone on a limestone pavement beside the road with no visitor centre and no ticket. The remains of at least thirty-three people were found under it. It takes ten minutes and it is one of the oldest things you will ever stand next to. Walk out onto the pavement itself and look down into the grikes, where the flowers are.

  3. 12:00pm

    Caherconnell, or the Aillwee caves

    Two good hours here depending on your appetite. Caherconnell is an intact ring fort with sheepdog demonstrations that are much better than that description suggests. Aillwee Cave and the Birds of Prey centre next door is the indoor option and the one for families.

  4. 1:30pm

    Lunch in Doolin

    Doolin is three pubs and a pier, and it is the traditional music capital of Clare in a way that is genuinely earned rather than marketed. Gus O'Connor's does lunch and has music most afternoons in summer. It is also where the Aran ferries and the Cliffs cruise leave from, if you want the Cliffs from below rather than above.

  5. 5:00pm

    The Cliffs of Moher, late

    Eight kilometres of cliff, 214 metres at the highest point, and about a million and a half visitors a year, almost all of them between ten and four. Arrive at five and the car park is half empty. Walk south from the visitor centre toward Hag's Head rather than north to O'Brien's Tower, because the crowd goes north and the view back at the cliff wall is better from the south. In June you have light until half nine.

  6. 8:30pm

    The last dinner

    Back to Dromoland for the final night, and we would not send you anywhere else. North Clare is thin on verified dinner service at this level in the evening, and the drive back from Lisdoonvarna in the dark is a poor end to the best day of the week. Eat in the castle, sleep in the same bed, and the airport is twenty minutes away in the morning. Verified 29 August 2026.

The Cliffs late in the afternoon, after the coaches have turned for Galway and Dublin.

What changes with the season

The Burren flowers are a May and June event, and the gentians and orchids that make the limestone famous are largely finished by August. The Cliffs are the opposite: the late afternoon light that makes them is at its best from May to September, and the visitor centre closes earlier in winter, which pushes the whole day forward by two hours from November.

Where we would eat

  • Gus O'Connor's, Doolin

    Chowder, a pint and music in the afternoon. The most reliable lunch in north Clare.

    Lunch, walk in. Music most summer afternoons from about four.

    Verified 29 August 2026

  • The Earl of Thomond, Dromoland

    The last dinner of the trip, in the castle, if you would rather not eat out.

    Booked when you booked the room.

    Verified 29 August 2026

If it rains

The Cliffs in cloud are a wall of fog and a gift shop, and there is no way to fix that. If the forecast is bad for the afternoon and good for the morning, invert this whole day: Cliffs at nine when they open, Burren after lunch. The Burren is the one landscape in Ireland that is arguably better wet, because the limestone goes silver.

What we skip

Galway city, which is an hour north of Ballyvaughan and pulls at everyone on this day. It is a wonderful city and it is a full day, not a two-hour detour on your last afternoon. It is the first thing we add when a reader tells us they have ten nights.

The room to ask for

Second night in the same room. Ask the hall porter to arrange the airport transfer tonight rather than in the morning.

From the field

Last driven 5 May 2026. Poulnabrone at nine in the morning was empty. The Cliffs at five in the afternoon were a third as busy as the middle of the day, and the last shuttle timings have not changed since our previous visit.

Booking this day

If you are booking a guided day here, insist on one that departs from Clare and returns to Clare. The Cliffs day trips that dominate search results run out of Dublin and Galway, and they return there, which is incompatible with sleeping at Dromoland. The option below departs locally.

If you book through this link, The Ireland Edit may earn a commission at no additional cost to you. We only include experiences we would recommend independently.

Last reviewed by the editors of The Ireland Edit