The Ireland Edit Guide · Off the Beaten Path

Hidden Gems in Ireland

Ten quiet places we actually send friends to, and the principles for finding the ones we don't publish. From an American editor living in Ireland, written for the second-time visitor who is ready to leave the headline sights behind.

A note from Deborah. Read her editorial perspective

The Short Answer

The real ones are rarely on lists. The ten places below can absorb a few more visitors. The others stay off the page. If this is your first Ireland trip, do the famous places properly. Save these for the second trip, build the route around one of them, and stay at least two nights.

Our pick of one. The Beara Peninsula in West Cork. The Ring of Kerry without the coaches, with the Healy Pass at sunset as the reward.

The phrase "hidden gem" has been worn smooth. By the time a place earns the label on a website, it is rarely hidden, sometimes not even a gem. We have watched the same fifteen towns trade the title between blogs for a decade. Half of them are at full capacity on a Tuesday in June.

We live here. Friends fly in. They ask the same question every time: where are the quiet places, the ones that aren't on the list. The honest answer is that we keep most of them private, because the moment they make a list they stop being what the question is reaching for.

What follows is a compromise. Ten places we are willing to publish, chosen because each one is robust enough to take a small increase in attention without losing the reason it matters. Then five principles for finding the ones we don't write about. Then a short list of what to ignore.

None of this is about avoiding the famous sights. Skellig Michael, the Cliffs of Moher, the Ring of Kerry, Trinity College: these earned their fame. Do them, in the right month, at the right hour. But if you have already done them, or you have a second week in the country, the trip below is where Ireland opens.

The Ten

Ten Quiet Places We Actually Send Friends To

No. 01 · West Clare

Loop Head, County Clare

Twenty miles south of the Cliffs of Moher and a different country. A working peninsula with one lighthouse, one good pub, and a coastline that does what the Cliffs do without the coaches.

Who we send

We send friends who came for the Cliffs and want to see what the Cliffs would be if they were quiet.

Pair it with

Lunch at The Long Dock in Carrigaholt. Order the seafood chowder, leave room for nothing else.

Best month

May, September, the first week of October.

No. 02 · Connemara coast

Inishbofin, off Galway

A 35-minute ferry from Cleggan, a population in the low hundreds, and the kind of silence that only islands manage. Two hotels, one harbour, and walks that take a morning each.

Who we send

We send couples who think they want the Aran Islands and would actually be happier here. Less day-trip traffic. More room to read in a window.

Pair it with

A night at Doonmore Hotel, supper at the Beach Bar, the loop walk to the East End in the morning.

Best month

Late May to mid-September. The ferry runs less reliably in winter.

No. 03 · South-west

The Beara Peninsula, West Cork to Kerry

The peninsula immediately north of Ring of Kerry, half as visited, twice as wild. A cable car to Dursey Island, a stone circle nobody else is at, and the road over the Healy Pass at sunset.

Who we send

We send anyone who has already done the Ring and wants the version with no tour bus in the rear-view mirror.

Pair it with

MacCarthy's Bar in Castletownbere for a slow lunch. The Healy Pass driven south to north, late afternoon, in any month but August.

Best month

April, June, September.

No. 04 · Mizen and Sheep's Head

Sheep's Head, West Cork

A narrow finger of land west of Bantry with the gentlest waymarked walks in the country and no traffic to speak of. The Sheep's Head Way is the loop, but you can do an hour of it and feel you've done a day.

Who we send

We send walkers who want a Wild Atlantic Way day without the drive, and writers who need three days where nobody will phone.

Pair it with

Arundel's by the Pier in Ahakista for the harbour view. The lighthouse walk on a clear morning.

Best month

May, June, September.

No. 05 · North-west

Tory Island, off Donegal

Nine miles offshore, Irish-speaking, a king who is elected rather than crowned, and a primitive painting school that became a movement. There is nowhere else like it on the European Atlantic.

Who we send

We send the traveler who has already loved Ireland once and wants the trip that nobody at home will recognise from the photos.

Pair it with

A night at the Tory Hotel. Breakfast with whoever else made the crossing. The cliff walk to Balor's Fort.

Best month

Late May to early September. The ferry is honest about weather and you should be too.

No. 06 · Midlands

The Slieve Bloom Mountains, Laois and Offaly

Ireland's secret upland. Not dramatic, not famous, not on the way to anywhere. Beech woods, peat bog, and waymarked trails that almost nobody is on, two hours from Dublin.

Who we send

We send the friend who has a free Saturday in Dublin and a rental car, and doesn't want to commit to the west.

Pair it with

Glenbarrow waterfall in the morning. Roundwood House nearby for a country-house lunch.

Best month

April for the bluebells. October for the colour.

No. 07 · South-west Donegal

Glencolmcille, south-west Donegal

A green glen behind the Slieve League cliffs, with a folk village, the best Atlantic swim of any beach we know (Silver Strand), and a pace that does not negotiate.

Who we send

We send the second-time visitor who liked Kerry and wants to see what Kerry is without the road traffic.

Pair it with

Silver Strand mid-afternoon. An Chistin for dinner. Slieve League the next morning, early.

Best month

June, July, early September.

No. 08 · Mayo coast

Inishturk, off Mayo

Population around fifty. One pub, one shop, one harbour. Walks across the top of the island that end at a cliff with nothing between you and Newfoundland. The ferry is from Roonagh, near Louisburgh.

Who we send

We send anyone who keeps saying they want to disappear for two days and means it.

Pair it with

Two nights at one of the island B&Bs. Skip the day-trip version. It misses the point.

Best month

Late May to early September.

No. 09 · North Clare

The Burren in winter

Same Burren, different country. The limestone is starker. The Atlantic light is sideways. The Cliffs car park is empty. Doolin pubs have music for locals, not tour groups.

Who we send

We send the traveler who can come in January or February and is willing to dress for it. The reward is enormous.

Pair it with

Gregans Castle for two nights. The Cliffs at first light. McGann's in Doolin for the late session.

Best month

November to February. We mean it.

No. 10 · Fermanagh, Northern Ireland

Lough Erne's southern shore, Fermanagh

A landscape of water and island that almost no American itinerary includes. Boat hire in Enniskillen, monastic ruins on Devenish, the Marble Arch Caves, and Lough Navar Forest for the view of all the islands at once.

Who we send

We send the traveler doing the Causeway Coast who has three free days and is willing to drive south for them.

Pair it with

Lough Erne Resort or the Manor House Hotel. A morning on a hired boat to Devenish. Dinner back at the hotel.

Best month

May, June, September.

Five Principles

How To Find The Ones We Don't Publish

  1. Principle 1

    A real one is rarely on a list

    By the time a place is on every list, it is no longer one. The best gems we know are the ones friends here tell us about over a second pint, and we are careful about which ones we publish. The ten above are deliberate. They can absorb a few more visitors. The other ones stay off the page.

  2. Principle 2

    The opposite of famous is not better. It is different.

    Skellig Michael is famous because it deserves to be. Don't avoid the famous places for the sake of avoiding them. Avoid them at the wrong time of day, in the wrong month, and on the wrong itinerary. A 6.30am Cliffs of Moher in March beats any quiet alternative at noon in August.

  3. Principle 3

    Distance is the cheapest filter

    The first 90 minutes from any Irish airport are the most visited miles in the country. The next 90 are not. Donegal, Mayo, Fermanagh, Beara, Sheep's Head, Loop Head. None of them is harder to drive to. They are simply further than most American itineraries make room for.

  4. Principle 4

    Month is more powerful than place

    September in Killarney is quieter than May on Sheep's Head. October on the Dingle Peninsula is quieter than June in the Slieve Blooms. Pick the month first. Half of the discovery is when you are there, not where.

  5. Principle 5

    Stay two nights, or don't go

    Most of these places give nothing on a day trip. They give everything on the second morning. We never stay one night anywhere in Ireland, and on these ten in particular, the trip begins on day two.

What To Ignore

Four Signals A "Hidden Gem" List Is Lying To You

  • Any list that says 'hidden gems' and then names the Cliffs of Moher.
  • Any blog that calls a town 'undiscovered' while ranking #1 for it on Google.
  • Any village that has a sign welcoming you to 'the hidden gem of the West'. The sign is the disclaimer.
  • Anywhere a coach tour stops for 40 minutes. By definition, no longer one.

The trip that finds these places isn't built around them.

It is built around staying longer in fewer places. Two nights minimum. A region instead of a route. A morning with nothing on the page. The "hidden gem" is not a destination you tick. It is what the country gives back when you stop trying to see all of it.

We have been here long enough to know that the friends who come home most changed by Ireland are not the ones with the longest list of sights. They are the ones who picked a small place, stayed three nights, drove almost nothing, and let the second morning happen.

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