The Ireland Edit
Ring of Kerry: The Luxury Driving Guide for Americans
Most tourists rush the Ring of Kerry in a crowded bus. Here is how affluent Americans drive it slowly, stay beautifully, and experience the Ireland that postcards cannot capture.
Quick Answer
Drive the Ring of Kerry counter-clockwise over two days, staying at The Europe in Killarney or Sheen Falls Lodge in Kenmare. Stop at Ladies View, Moll's Gap, Derrynane Beach, and Valentia Island. Hire a private driver if you prefer not to navigate narrow roads yourself. The best months are May, June, and September.
A note from Deborah. Read her editorial perspective
At a Glance
Quick Picks
| Hotel | Best For | Price Range | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Our PickThe Europe, Killarney | Best luxury base for starting the Ring | €350–€600/night | Check Availability → |
| Sheen Falls Lodge | Best for the southern Ring via Kenmare | €300–€550/night | Check Availability → |
| Park Hotel Kenmare | Heritage luxury with spa and dining | €280–€500/night | Check Availability → |
| Private Ring of Kerry Tour | Skip the driving, see everything | €350–€500/day | Check Availability → |
Day by Day
Your Itinerary
Killarney to Kenmare via the Southern Ring
Killarney → Moll's Gap → Ladies View → Kenmare
Leave Killarney heading south through Killarney National Park. The first stop is Torc Waterfall. A five-minute walk from the car park and empty before 9 a.m. Continue to Ladies View, where Queen Victoria's ladies-in-waiting allegedly gasped at the panorama over the Upper Lake. The viewpoint is spectacular, and on a clear morning you will understand why. Wind through Moll's Gap (stop at Avoca for coffee), then descend into Kenmare for lunch. The afternoon is yours: walk the town, visit the Kenmare Lace Centre, or book a treatment at SÁMAS Spa at the Park Hotel. Dinner at The Lime Tree or No. 35. Both excellent, both walkable.
Highlights
- •Torc Waterfall before the crowds arrive
- •Ladies View. One of Ireland's most photographed panoramas
- •Moll's Gap for coffee and mountain views
- •Kenmare town: restaurants, boutiques, and colourful streetscapes
- •Spa afternoon at SÁMAS in the Park Hotel Kenmare
Kenmare to Waterville, Valentia Island & Back to Killarney
Kenmare → Sneem → Derrynane → Waterville → Valentia Island → Cahersiveen → Killorglin → Killarney
Today is the showpiece. Leave Kenmare heading west along the coast through Sneem. A village so perfectly painted it looks like a film set. Continue to Derrynane Beach, where turquoise water meets white sand in a setting that Americans consistently compare to the Caribbean (minus the temperature). Waterville is the lunch stop: Charlie Chaplin loved this village so much he returned every summer. After lunch, cross the bridge to Valentia Island for Geokaun Mountain viewpoint. The panorama of the Skellig Islands is extraordinary. Return via Cahersiveen and Killorglin (home of the Puck Fair), arriving back at Killarney by early evening. Celebrate with dinner at The Lake Room at The Europe or The Dunloe's restaurant.
Highlights
- •Sneem. Ireland's most colourful village
- •Derrynane Beach. Wild Atlantic beauty, rarely crowded
- •Waterville village and the Charlie Chaplin connection
- •Valentia Island: Geokaun Mountain and Skellig views
- •Killorglin and the return along the northern Ring
Gap of Dunloe & Killarney National Park
Killarney
If you have a third day (and you should), the Gap of Dunloe is unmissable. This narrow mountain pass between MacGillycuddy's Reeks and Purple Mountain is one of Ireland's most dramatic landscapes. The classic way to experience it: take a boat across the Upper Lake from Ross Castle to Lord Brandon's Cottage, then walk, cycle, or take a pony-and-trap through the Gap back to Kate Kearney's Cottage. It is a full-day experience and one of the most memorable things Americans do in Ireland. Afternoon, explore Muckross House and Gardens or take a jaunting car ride through the national park.
Highlights
- •Boat trip from Ross Castle across the Killarney lakes
- •Gap of Dunloe: walk, cycle, or pony-and-trap through the pass
- •Muckross House and its Victorian gardens
- •Jaunting car ride through Killarney National Park
Road Trip
The Wild Atlantic Way
The Printed Edit
Take The Wild Atlantic Way with you.
The Wild Atlantic Way at the right pace, with the bases we'd actually book.
Built from the drive we send first-timers every week.
A Quiet Word From the Editors
Planning a special trip to Ireland?
Many American readers email us directly while shaping their itinerary. If you're deciding between hotels, regions or routes, we're always happy to point you in the right direction.
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