The Ireland Edit

Belfast & the Causeway Coast: Northern Ireland's Luxury Itinerary for Americans

We almost skipped Northern Ireland on our first trip. Thank God we didn't. Belfast is one of Europe's most exciting cities, the Causeway Coast is the most dramatic drive on the island, and Royal Portrush might be the best links course we have ever played. Five days, three hotels, zero regrets.

Quick Answer

Northern Ireland is the most underrated part of the island for American visitors. Belfast has transformed into a world-class city. The Titanic Quarter, the Cathedral Quarter's cocktail bars, and restaurants like Ox and The Muddlers Club rival anything in Dublin. The Causeway Coast from Portrush to Ballycastle is the single most beautiful drive in Ireland, including the Giant's Causeway, Dunluce Castle, the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge, and the Dark Hedges. Royal Portrush hosted The Open in 2019. Royal County Down in Newcastle is regularly voted the best course in the world. Start in Belfast (two nights), drive the coast to Bushmills or Portrush (two nights), then loop back via the Mourne Mountains. Allow five days minimum.

A note from Deborah. Read her editorial perspective

At a Glance

Quick Picks

HotelBest ForPrice Range
Our PickThe Merchant Hotel BelfastBest luxury hotel in Belfast£220–£450/nightCheck Availability →
Bushmills InnBest boutique base for the Causeway Coast£180–£320/nightCheck Availability →
Slieve Donard ResortBest golf resort (Royal County Down next door)£200–£380/nightCheck Availability →
Giant's Causeway Private TourBest way to experience the Causeway Coast£150–£300/groupCheck Availability →

Day by Day

Your Itinerary

Day 1

Belfast: Titanic City, Reimagined

Belfast

Arrive in Belfast and check into The Merchant Hotel in the Cathedral Quarter. It is the most beautiful hotel interior in Ireland, a former Victorian bank with a jaw-dropping Great Room. Spend the afternoon at Titanic Belfast (genuinely world-class, not the tourist trap we expected). Walk through the Cathedral Quarter for dinner. We loved Ox for tasting menus and The Muddlers Club for something more relaxed. End the night in The Merchant's rooftop cocktail bar.

Highlights

  • Check into The Merchant Hotel. The most stunning hotel interior in Ireland
  • Titanic Belfast museum. Genuinely world-class and deeply moving
  • Dinner at Ox or The Muddlers Club in the Cathedral Quarter
  • Cocktails in The Merchant's rooftop Art Deco bar

Where to Stay

The Merchant Hotel

Book early. Best rates disappear quickly.

Day 2

Belfast: Markets, Murals & Michelin Stars

Belfast

Morning at St George's Market. The best food market in Ireland, and we say that as people who love the English Market in Cork. The atmosphere on a Saturday is electric. Afternoon: take a Black Cab political tour through the murals of the Falls and Shankill Roads. It is sobering, essential, and told with a dark humour that is uniquely Belfast. Afternoon tea at The Merchant, then dinner at Eipic (Michelin-starred, Chef Danni Barry's cooking is extraordinary) or DEANES for classic fine dining.

Highlights

  • St George's Market. Saturday morning is unmissable
  • Black Cab mural tour. Essential and deeply human
  • Afternoon tea at The Merchant Hotel
  • Dinner at Eipic (Michelin star) or DEANES

Where to Stay

The Merchant Hotel

Book early. Best rates disappear quickly.

Book This Day

Small numbers on these dates. Book before you fly.

Day 3

The Causeway Coastal Route: Ireland's Most Dramatic Drive

Belfast to Bushmills

This is the day that will define your trip. Drive north from Belfast on the A2 coastal route. Every turn reveals something more beautiful than the last. Stop at Glenarm and the Glens of Antrim, cross the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge (terrifying and thrilling in equal measure), and arrive at the Giant's Causeway in the late afternoon when the tour buses have left and you have the hexagonal columns almost to yourself. Check into Bushmills Inn. A coaching inn that has been welcoming guests since 1608. Dinner at their restaurant, then a nightcap of Bushmills whiskey by the peat fire.

Highlights

  • Drive the Causeway Coastal Route. The most beautiful drive in Ireland
  • Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge. Not for the faint-hearted
  • Giant's Causeway in the late afternoon. Fewer crowds, better light
  • Check into Bushmills Inn and taste Old Bushmills whiskey by the fire

Where to Stay

Bushmills Inn

Book early. Best rates disappear quickly.

Book This Day

Small numbers on these dates. Book before you fly.

Day 4

Royal Portrush, Dunluce Castle & the Dark Hedges

Bushmills & Portrush

If you play golf, this morning is Royal Portrush. The Dunluce Links hosted The Open in 2019 and the views from the 5th tee over the White Rocks beach made us stop mid-swing. Even if you do not play, the clubhouse is open for lunch and the views are spectacular. Afternoon: visit Dunluce Castle perched on its sea cliff (the most photogenic ruin in Ireland), then drive to the Dark Hedges. The beech tree avenue made famous by Game of Thrones. It is genuinely magical in the late afternoon light. Dinner at 55 Degrees North in Portrush. Floor-to-ceiling ocean views.

Highlights

  • Royal Portrush Dunluce Links. The Open venue with White Rocks views
  • Dunluce Castle. The most dramatic castle ruin in Ireland
  • The Dark Hedges. Game of Thrones' King's Road in real life
  • Dinner at 55 Degrees North overlooking the Atlantic

Where to Stay

Bushmills Inn

Book early. Best rates disappear quickly.

Day 5

The Mourne Mountains & Royal County Down

Newcastle, Co. Down

Drive south through the Glens of Antrim to Newcastle and the Mourne Mountains. The landscape that inspired C.S. Lewis's Narnia. If you play golf, Royal County Down is regularly voted the best golf course in the world, and standing on the 9th tee with the Mournes behind you and Dundrum Bay ahead, you will understand why. Check into the Slieve Donard Resort, which sits at the foot of the mountains next to Royal County Down. Even non-golfers will love the Victorian grandeur, the spa, and the walks along the beach. Fly home from Belfast City Airport (forty minutes) or Dublin Airport (ninety minutes).

Highlights

  • Royal County Down. Regularly voted the best course in the world
  • The Mourne Mountains. C.S. Lewis's inspiration for Narnia
  • Slieve Donard Resort. Victorian grandeur at the foot of the Mournes
  • Easy departure via Belfast City Airport (40 min) or Dublin (90 min)

Where to Stay

Slieve Donard Resort

Book early. Best rates disappear quickly.

Cover of the bound printed edition N° 01, The 7-Day Ireland Itinerary, cover line “The Wild Atlantic Journey”, from The Ireland Edit. The linen-bound volume photographed as a physical book, with a documentary photograph of The Blasket Islands, County Kerry tipped into the front board.
The Ireland EditN° 01

Seven Days

The Wild Atlantic Journey

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A Quiet Word From the Editors

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