The Ireland Edit
Belfast & the Causeway Coast: Northern Ireland's Luxury Itinerary for Americans
We almost skipped Northern Ireland on our first trip. Thank God we didn't. Belfast is one of Europe's most exciting cities, the Causeway Coast is the most dramatic drive on the island, and Royal Portrush might be the best links course we have ever played. Five days, three hotels, zero regrets.
Quick Answer
Northern Ireland is the most underrated part of the island for American visitors. Belfast has transformed into a world-class city. The Titanic Quarter, the Cathedral Quarter's cocktail bars, and restaurants like Ox and The Muddlers Club rival anything in Dublin. The Causeway Coast from Portrush to Ballycastle is the single most beautiful drive in Ireland, including the Giant's Causeway, Dunluce Castle, the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge, and the Dark Hedges. Royal Portrush hosted The Open in 2019. Royal County Down in Newcastle is regularly voted the best course in the world. Start in Belfast (two nights), drive the coast to Bushmills or Portrush (two nights), then loop back via the Mourne Mountains. Allow five days minimum.
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At a Glance
Quick Picks
| Hotel | Best For | Price Range | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Our PickThe Merchant Hotel Belfast | Best luxury hotel in Belfast | £220–£450/night | Check Availability → |
| Bushmills Inn | Best boutique base for the Causeway Coast | £180–£320/night | Check Availability → |
| Slieve Donard Resort | Best golf resort (Royal County Down next door) | £200–£380/night | Check Availability → |
| Giant's Causeway Private Tour | Best way to experience the Causeway Coast | £150–£300/group | Check Availability → |
Day by Day
Your Itinerary
Belfast: Titanic City, Reimagined
Belfast
Arrive in Belfast and check into The Merchant Hotel in the Cathedral Quarter. It is the most beautiful hotel interior in Ireland, a former Victorian bank with a jaw-dropping Great Room. Spend the afternoon at Titanic Belfast (genuinely world-class, not the tourist trap we expected). Walk through the Cathedral Quarter for dinner. We loved Ox for tasting menus and The Muddlers Club for something more relaxed. End the night in The Merchant's rooftop cocktail bar.
Highlights
- •Check into The Merchant Hotel. The most stunning hotel interior in Ireland
- •Titanic Belfast museum. Genuinely world-class and deeply moving
- •Dinner at Ox or The Muddlers Club in the Cathedral Quarter
- •Cocktails in The Merchant's rooftop Art Deco bar
Belfast: Markets, Murals & Michelin Stars
Belfast
Morning at St George's Market. The best food market in Ireland, and we say that as people who love the English Market in Cork. The atmosphere on a Saturday is electric. Afternoon: take a Black Cab political tour through the murals of the Falls and Shankill Roads. It is sobering, essential, and told with a dark humour that is uniquely Belfast. Afternoon tea at The Merchant, then dinner at Eipic (Michelin-starred, Chef Danni Barry's cooking is extraordinary) or DEANES for classic fine dining.
Highlights
- •St George's Market. Saturday morning is unmissable
- •Black Cab mural tour. Essential and deeply human
- •Afternoon tea at The Merchant Hotel
- •Dinner at Eipic (Michelin star) or DEANES
The Causeway Coastal Route: Ireland's Most Dramatic Drive
Belfast to Bushmills
This is the day that will define your trip. Drive north from Belfast on the A2 coastal route. Every turn reveals something more beautiful than the last. Stop at Glenarm and the Glens of Antrim, cross the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge (terrifying and thrilling in equal measure), and arrive at the Giant's Causeway in the late afternoon when the tour buses have left and you have the hexagonal columns almost to yourself. Check into Bushmills Inn. A coaching inn that has been welcoming guests since 1608. Dinner at their restaurant, then a nightcap of Bushmills whiskey by the peat fire.
Highlights
- •Drive the Causeway Coastal Route. The most beautiful drive in Ireland
- •Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge. Not for the faint-hearted
- •Giant's Causeway in the late afternoon. Fewer crowds, better light
- •Check into Bushmills Inn and taste Old Bushmills whiskey by the fire
Royal Portrush, Dunluce Castle & the Dark Hedges
Bushmills & Portrush
If you play golf, this morning is Royal Portrush. The Dunluce Links hosted The Open in 2019 and the views from the 5th tee over the White Rocks beach made us stop mid-swing. Even if you do not play, the clubhouse is open for lunch and the views are spectacular. Afternoon: visit Dunluce Castle perched on its sea cliff (the most photogenic ruin in Ireland), then drive to the Dark Hedges. The beech tree avenue made famous by Game of Thrones. It is genuinely magical in the late afternoon light. Dinner at 55 Degrees North in Portrush. Floor-to-ceiling ocean views.
Highlights
- •Royal Portrush Dunluce Links. The Open venue with White Rocks views
- •Dunluce Castle. The most dramatic castle ruin in Ireland
- •The Dark Hedges. Game of Thrones' King's Road in real life
- •Dinner at 55 Degrees North overlooking the Atlantic
The Mourne Mountains & Royal County Down
Newcastle, Co. Down
Drive south through the Glens of Antrim to Newcastle and the Mourne Mountains. The landscape that inspired C.S. Lewis's Narnia. If you play golf, Royal County Down is regularly voted the best golf course in the world, and standing on the 9th tee with the Mournes behind you and Dundrum Bay ahead, you will understand why. Check into the Slieve Donard Resort, which sits at the foot of the mountains next to Royal County Down. Even non-golfers will love the Victorian grandeur, the spa, and the walks along the beach. Fly home from Belfast City Airport (forty minutes) or Dublin Airport (ninety minutes).
Highlights
- •Royal County Down. Regularly voted the best course in the world
- •The Mourne Mountains. C.S. Lewis's inspiration for Narnia
- •Slieve Donard Resort. Victorian grandeur at the foot of the Mournes
- •Easy departure via Belfast City Airport (40 min) or Dublin (90 min)

Seven Days
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