Cornerstone Essay · The Expat Perspective

Where Americans get Ireland wrong

Seven honest mistakes we see every week, and the corrections we'd send to a friend before they book. Written by American expats living in Ireland for the traveler still planning their trip.

Before we start

We are not here to make Americans feel bad about Ireland. We moved here from the States. Our families still come to visit. The trips they planned before we lived here looked, almost always, exactly like the trips below.

This is the conversation we have with friends now, the week they forward us the itinerary their travel agent sent them. It is also the one piece of writing on this site we ask every first-time visitor to read before they book a single hotel.

Mistake 01

You think the Cliffs of Moher are the highlight

They are the most photographed cliffs in Ireland. They are not the best ones. By the time the second coach pulls in at eleven, the wind has the smell of diesel on it. The cliffs at Slieve League in Donegal are taller, emptier and feel like the country actually showing you something. If the Moher visit is the day you sell to the kids, drive there at first light and leave before ten. Otherwise, swap them for Slieve League or the Loop Head peninsula and don't apologise.

Do this instead: Slieve League, Donegal. Or Loop Head, Clare.

Donegal, the wild north

Mistake 02

You're trying to drive the Ring of Kerry

The Ring of Kerry is a coach loop. It was designed for buses. Cars get stuck behind buses. The route was laid out to keep the buses moving counter-clockwise, which means you spend a hundred and seventy kilometres staring at the back of one. The actual Kerry that everyone you love would come home talking about is the Skellig Ring, the Beara Peninsula one valley south, and Kenmare itself for two unhurried nights. Drop the loop. Stay in one place. Drive less.

Do this instead: Beara Peninsula, two nights in Kenmare.

The 7-day itinerary, written properly

Mistake 03

You're putting four cities into seven days

Dublin, Galway, Killarney, Cork. We see this itinerary every week and it is always wrong. Every transfer day is a half day burned, every check-in is a small administrative grief, and you arrive home unable to remember which hotel had the good breakfast. Pick two bases for a seven-day trip. Three for ten. The dinners you'll remember happen on the second night somewhere, never the first.

Do this instead: Two bases for a week. Three for ten days. No exceptions.

The 10-day route, taken slowly

Mistake 04

You don't need a castle hotel

We love the castle hotels. We send people to Ashford and Ballyfin and Dromoland with a clear conscience. But the unspoken thing is that the best night of most American trips here is not the castle. It is the small country house with seven rooms and an honest dinner. Cliff House in Ardmore. Gregans Castle in the Burren, which is a country house wearing a castle name. The Park in Kenmare. The castle is the photograph. The country house is the memory.

Do this instead: One castle night, one country-house night, in that order.

Castle hotels, honestly

Mistake 05

Two days in Dublin is enough, and you know it

Dublin is a great small capital. It is not a Paris or a London, and the trip plan that gives it three full days, then rushes the entire west of Ireland in four, has the priorities reversed. Two nights. One slow Georgian morning, one Stoneybatter afternoon, two good dinners. Then drive west before lunch on day three. Dublin works as a bracket. It does not work as the trip.

Do this instead: Two nights in Dublin. Then west.

How many days in Dublin, really

Mistake 06

The Wild Atlantic Way is not a road trip

It's a route number on a sign, 2,500 kilometres long, painted as a tourism corridor. Driving the whole thing in a week is a misunderstanding of what it is. The best version is the opposite: pick one 200-kilometre stretch and let the trip live inside it. Connemara to Westport. Sligo to Donegal. Dingle, by itself, with two nights at the same hotel. The road wasn't built to be conquered. It was built to be stopped on.

Do this instead: Two hundred kilometres, slowly. Not two thousand.

The road trip, the way we'd drive it

Mistake 07

You're packing the trip as if it's going to be loud

The American Ireland trip we're sent to fix is always too full. Too many counties. Too many hotels. Too many "can we also add" emails to the planner. The country rewards the opposite instinct. A morning where nothing is booked. An afternoon spent walking around one town. The dinner that wasn't on the itinerary. We've never had a reader come home and say they wished they'd done more. We've had hundreds say they wished they'd done less.

Do this instead: One unbooked morning per week. Hold it sacred.

Our editorial itineraries

Six small rules

The things we'd tell you in a coffee

  • 01

    Never one-night a hotel after a four-hour drive. The night is gone before it starts.

  • 02

    If you can see the Atlantic from the window, eat dinner where it's still visible.

  • 03

    Book the country-house dinners before you book the flights. They sell out earlier.

  • 04

    Skip the pre-paid bus tour. Hire a private driver for a single day instead.

  • 05

    Rent a smaller car than you think. The roads will explain why.

  • 06

    Pack one good waterproof. Stop checking the forecast on day two.

We've never had a reader come home and say they wished they'd done more. We've had hundreds say they wished they'd done less.

Common questions

Questions Americans actually ask us