Ballymaloe & Beyond: The Cookery School, the Country House, the Michelin Stars
Every serious Irish food trip starts in the same place: the walled garden at Ballymaloe. From there it moves north to Dublin, where a new generation of Michelin kitchens is doing the most exciting cooking in Europe. This is the dining trip we'd build for ourselves.
The places we recommend to friends.
For American visitors
Ballymaloe is a country house, a cookery school and a farm in East Cork, about 25 miles east of Cork city and a 2 hour 30 minute drive from Dublin. Book a one day course three to four months ahead, sleep at Ballymaloe House the night before, and treat it as the anchor of a Cork week rather than a day trip.
Irish costs and distances translated for American visitors
At Ballymaloe
What that means for you
Where it isShanagarry, East Cork
About 25 miles east of Cork city, 2 hrs 30 from Dublin, 45 minutes from Cork Airport.
One day courseAbout 245 to 295 euro
Roughly 265 to 320 dollars, lunch and the garden walk included.
Booking window3 to 4 months for day courses
Six months for weekends, a year for the 12 week certificate. It sells out earlier than Americans expect.
Ballymaloe HouseAbout 250 to 380 euro a night
Roughly 270 to 415 dollars, dinner extra. The farmhouse dining room is the point.
Getting thereCar, no useful public transport
You need a rental. Fly Dublin or Cork, drive, and keep the car for the rest of West Cork.
The mistake we see most often: booking the course and driving back to Dublin the same day. The garden, the dinner and the morning are as good as the class.
The Ireland Edit: drive times and rates checked with the house and school
Figures last checked . Dollar conversions use a rate of about 1.09 dollars to the euro and 1.27 to the pound, and move with the market.
How to build the trip
Four ways to do Ballymaloe
Same place, four completely different trips. Pick by how much time you have and whether you want to cook or just eat.
Four ways to do Ballymaloe
Shape
Nights
What you do
Cost per couple
The dinner onlyBallymaloe House
1
Arrive late afternoon, garden walk, the buffet dessert trolley, breakfast
About $600
The classicHouse plus one day course
2
Dinner, a full day at the school, a second quiet night
About $1,500
The food weekEast Cork and West Cork
5 to 6
Ballymaloe, Kinsale, Skibbereen market, Castletownshend, Cork's English Market
About $4,000
The Michelin runCork plus Dublin
7
Ballymaloe, then Chapter One, Liath and Variety Jones in Dublin
About $6,000
Figures are indicative and cover rooms and dining for two, not flights or the rental car.
The Lead Experience
The Cookery School Experience
A day at the Ballymaloe Cookery School is the single best food experience in Ireland. You walk the 100-acre organic farm with Darina or Rachel Allen, harvest your own vegetables from the walled garden, and cook them over an open hearth in a converted apple barn. By 4pm you are eating, with wine, what you grew at 10am. Most travellers arrive thinking it will be charming. They leave thinking about how they cook at home.
One-day courses run year-round. Bread, seafood, garden cooking, Sunday roasts. Roughly €245 per person, lunch and wine included.
Weekend immersions over two and three days, with hands-on stations and farm tours led by the Allen family.
The 12-week certificate remains the most respected cookery qualification in Ireland. Worth knowing, even if you only ever do the day course.
The Ballymaloe House overnight next door is the version of this trip we always recommend. Garden tour, candlelit dinner, country house bed.
Day courses sell out 3 to 4 months ahead. We can hold your dates while you plan the rest of the trip.
How We'd Build the Trip
Ballymaloe in the Country, Dublin in the City
Nights 1 to 2: Ballymaloe House. Garden tour, candlelit five-course dinner, the Cookery School day course, brown bread ice cream for everyone. Nights 3 to 4: Dublin, based at The Merrion or The Shelbourne. Chapter One one evening, Liath or Variety Jones the next. Night 5: Forest Avenue or Bastible, the quiet local meal that ends the trip the right way. Pair this with our full culinary Ireland guide and our Top 10 Dublin restaurants.
And Then: The Beyond
The Five Dublin Rooms We'd Pair With Ballymaloe
Once you've spent a day in the East Cork gardens, Dublin's Michelin rooms read differently. You taste the produce first, then the technique. These are the five rooms we would actually book around a Ballymaloe overnight.
01
Chapter One by Mickael Viljanen
Parnell Square, Dublin 1
Google
4.4
(10,100 reviews)
The two-Michelin-star room that defines modern Dublin dining. Viljanen's cooking is precise, Nordic-tinged, and quietly Irish at its core. Book the lunch tasting for the best-value fine dining in the city.
Why We Love It: The Chef's Table is the room's quiet drama. Thursday evenings feel like the kitchen breathing out after a long week.
Damien Grey's 20-seat counter is the most exciting cooking in Ireland. Two Michelin stars, one tasting menu, no choices. Reservations open midnight, two months ahead, and disappear in minutes.
Why We Love It: The four counter seats are the room. Watching Grey plate every course is closer to omakase than European fine dining.
Keelan Higgs' Liberties restaurant. A tasting menu that changes constantly, an open kitchen with real energy, and the most thoughtful natural wine list in Dublin.
Why We Love It: The 5:30 sitting on a weekday is the sweet spot. Quieter room, full tasting, more attention from the pass.
A former bakery turned soulful neighbourhood restaurant. Barry FitzGerald's cooking is Irish at the bone, Mediterranean in its lightness. The sourdough still comes from the original ovens.
Why We Love It: Wednesday nights are quieter and the kitchen cooks with more spontaneity. The banquette by the open pass is the seat to ask for.
The Wyers' Donnybrook restaurant earned its Michelin star in 2025, long after Dublin chefs had quietly made it their off-night booking. Restrained, ingredient-led cooking with one of the country's best wine lists.
Why We Love It: Ask Sandy for off-list wines. She keeps extraordinary bottles back for guests who actually ask.
Rates are checked on the hotel's own booking page. If you book through these links we may earn a commission, at no cost to you. It never changes which properties we recommend.
Common questions
Ballymaloe & Beyond. Common Questions
Personalised Planning
Let Us Hold the Cookery School Dates
We hold cookery school seats, book Ballymaloe House overnights, and reserve the Dublin Michelin rooms in the right order. Tell us what you want to cook and what you want to eat. We will build the week around it.