Sheridans Cheesemongers

Photograph: Lisa Harbin / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.0

Editorial Review

Sheridans Cheesemongers

Churchyard Street, Galway

The Atmosphere

“The shop that saved Irish farmhouse cheese, and the best counter in Galway for anything to carry home.”

Kevin and Seamus Sheridan started selling Irish farmhouse cheese from a market stall in Galway in 1995, at a point when several of those cheeses were close to disappearing. The shop off Shop Street is now the reference counter in the country: Durrus, Gubbeen, Milleens, Cashel Blue, Coolea, plus oak-smoked fish, seaweed, and the breads that go with all of it. Ask what is eating well this month and buy that rather than the name you recognise.

The long version

The Galway shop that kept Irish farmhouse cheese alive when several of its makers were on the edge of giving up.

Churchyard Street is narrow enough that the smell from the shop reaches the corner before the door does, a mix of ripening rind and the sharper note of a cut wedge of blue. Inside, wheels and blocks are stacked to the ceiling on wooden shelving, a handwritten board listing what is at its best this week, and a member of staff already mid-conversation with a regular about a Gubbeen that has just come into condition.

Kevin and Seamus Sheridan started this from a market stall in 1995, at a point when several of the farmhouse cheeses now considered essential to Irish food were genuinely at risk of disappearing for lack of a market. The shop that grew out of that stall is now the reference counter in the country, and the cheeses it champions are still made within a couple of hours of this room.

“This shop is the reason several Irish cheeses still exist. That is not an exaggeration, it is simply the history.”

What is on the counter

Durrus, Gubbeen, Milleens, Cashel Blue and Coolea form the core of the counter, the farmhouse cheeses that defined the Irish cheese revival of the 1980s and 90s, most of them made by small producers within two hours of Galway. Alongside them sit oak-smoked fish, cured meats, seaweed products and the breads built to go with all of it.

Ask what is eating well this week rather than reaching straight for a name you recognize. The staff taste the cheeses constantly and will steer you toward whichever wheel has just hit its peak, which changes from visit to visit in a way no supermarket counter can replicate.

The hour that matters

Weekday late morning, before the lunch rush of shoppers moving through Galway's compact medieval core, gives the staff time to actually talk you through what is good. Saturday afternoon is busier and faster, workable but less conversational.

If you are buying to carry home, do it toward the end of a Galway visit rather than the start, and ask for it vacuum packed properly at the counter. They do this constantly and know how to pack cheese for a transatlantic flight.

Who it suits

Anyone spending a day in Galway's medieval core should build in twenty minutes here, whether or not cheese is a planned purchase, simply for what the shop explains about the west of Ireland's food revival. It suits self-caterers directly and gift shoppers just as well.

It is a small shop and can feel crowded with more than a handful of customers inside at once, so it rewards patience over a rushed visit squeezed between other stops.

What we would not pretend

It is a small, single-room shop, and a crowded Saturday afternoon can make the browsing feel rushed rather than conversational. Go on a weekday if you want the staff's full attention on what is worth buying that week.

How we would use it

A stop off Shop Street on a Galway morning, paired with Gannet Fishmongers a short walk away if you are self-catering, with cheese vacuum packed last so it travels well toward the end of the trip.

Sheridans Cheesemongers

Rooms Worth Requesting

What it actually feels like.

Cheese needs a vacuum pack for the flight home. Ask at the counter and they will do it properly.

Sheridans Cheesemongers

Why we recommend it

A space that justifies the journey.

This shop is the reason several Irish cheeses still exist. The staff will tell you what is at its peak this week, which no supermarket in Ireland can do.