Causeway Coast: basalt columns, cliff path, North Atlantic

Causeway Coast · If You Only Have

Two days on the Causeway Coast, the way we'd do it.

Written by American expats. A Bushmills Inn base, the Giant's Causeway in the empty hour, the cliff path to Carrick-a-Rede, one Ballycastle pub after.

The Expat Perspective

Belfast is the city. The Causeway Coast is the morning you wake up early for.

We base in Bushmills. The Inn's gas lamps light the village by four, the Causeway gates are seven minutes from the door, and Ballycastle for the pub is twenty. Two days is the honest length: one to arrive into a snug fire, one to walk the cliff path before the coaches arrive.

What follows is the two-day spine we'd give ourselves. The room, the road, the table, the one pub after. Every name on the page is real and bookable. Belfast and Derry are their own trips, on their own pages.

The Two Days, In Order

The shape of a proper Causeway stay.

  1. Day 1 · causeway bushmills

    The Giant's Causeway. Through the Inn's door by four.

    Arrival into Bushmills. The Inn's gas lamps lit by four, the snug by the fire, dinner in the dining room that has been the dining room for two centuries.

    Afternoon
    Main Street Bushmills empties after six. The Inn's lamps lit early, the snug warm before the door closes behind.
    Evening
    Dinner in the loft if it's free. A whiskey at the bar, the round tower bed by midnight.
    What stays
    Peat smoke from the snug fire, whiskey on the back of the throat at the bar.
  2. Day 2 · causeway giants causeway

    The Giant's Causeway. The stones at the empty hour.

    The Causeway at the empty hour. Down before nine or after four, the cliff path from the Causeway Hotel, the basalt columns when the coaches are still on the motorway.

    Afternoon
    Carrick-a-Rede at noon, Ballintoy at two, Dunseverick on the way back. The wind never out of the ears.
    Evening
    Back to Ballycastle for the pint at McDonnell's. Dinner late in Bushmills, bed by eleven.
    What stays
    Salt spray at the Shepherd's Steps, the rope-bridge wind still in the coat at the bar.

Where We'd Sleep

One base, chosen for the lamps.

Three houses we'd actually book ourselves. The Bushmills Inn for the snug fires and the loft dining room, the Bayview for the coast path from the door, the Causeway Hotel for the first-light walk to the stones.

Bushmills Inn Hotel & Restaurant
Hotel

Bushmills Inn Hotel & Restaurant

The gas-lit coaching inn on Main Street. Peat fires in the snug, the round-tower loft, the closest bed to the distillery.

First-Person Insight

We send friends here when the trip needs a centre. We book the Mill House side, take the snug by four, and the loft dining room writes the rest of the night.

How we'd do it: Mill House room. The snug by the fire before dinner, the loft after.

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Bayview Hotel Portballintrae
Hotel

Bayview Hotel Portballintrae

The harbour hotel above Portballintrae. Sea-facing rooms, ten minutes to the Causeway gates, the coast path from the door.

First-Person Insight

We give Bayview to friends who want the coast path from the door. Sea-view rooms, breakfast over the harbour, ten minutes to the Causeway gates.

How we'd do it: Sea-view room. The coast path before breakfast, dinner back at the Bushmills Inn.

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The Causeway Hotel
Hotel

The Causeway Hotel

The National Trust hotel on the cliff above the Causeway stones. Wake before the coaches arrive, walk down in the empty hour.

First-Person Insight

We learned the trick at the Causeway Hotel: stay on the cliff and walk down before the gates open. Sea-facing rooms, first light, the stones empty for an hour.

How we'd do it: Sea-facing room. First light walk to the stones, breakfast back after the gates open.

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Where We'd Eat

Two tables, two moods.

Tartine at The Distillers Arms for the 1786 Main Street room and the whiskey list, the Bushmills Inn's own dining room for the long unhurried night. Both are what they advertise. Neither is filler.

Tartine at The Distillers Arms
Restaurant

Tartine at The Distillers Arms

The 1786 Main Street room, the home of the Bushmills distillers a century ago. Local Antrim plates, a serious whiskey list, fires in winter.

First-Person Insight

We book Tartine early on a winter night for the fire. Local Antrim plates, a Bushmills 16 to finish, the walk back across Main Street to the Inn.

How we'd do it: Early evening sitting. The fish of the day, a Bushmills 16 to finish.

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Bushmills Inn Restaurant
Restaurant

Bushmills Inn Restaurant

The Inn's gas-lit dining room. Antrim beef, North Sea fish, a stewed apple crumble and a whiskey, no rush back to the room.

First-Person Insight

We book the loft if it's free. The seasonal three-course, a whiskey flight, and the room is short enough that the walk back to bed is part of the dinner.

How we'd do it: Window two-top, the seasonal three-course, the whiskey flight to finish.

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The Pub That Matters

One Georgian snug, one slow pint.

House of McDonnell on Castle Street, Ballycastle. Same family since 1776, original snug, listed interior, Friday-night trad, the right pint of stout.

House of McDonnell, Ballycastle
Pub

House of McDonnell, Ballycastle

Castle Street's listed Georgian pub. Same family since 1776, original snug, Friday-night trad, the right pint of stout.

First-Person Insight

We have a Ballycastle rule: snug if it's free, the bar if not, one pint of stout, a second only if the Friday session is real. Same family since 1776 and you can feel it.

How we'd do it: Snug if it's free, the bar if not. One pint, a second only if the session is real.

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The Days That Earn The Trip

Basalt columns and a fisherman's rope bridge.

The Giant's Causeway in the empty hour, the cliff walk to Carrick-a-Rede after. The two walks that make the coast make sense.

The Giant's Causeway
Experience

The Giant's Causeway

The basalt columns at the cliff foot. Walk down from the National Trust centre, around the Shepherd's Steps if the wind allows.

First-Person Insight

We arrive before nine or after four. The cliff path from the Causeway Hotel beats the shuttle every time, and the Shepherd's Steps reward the climb back up.

How we'd do it: Arrive before nine or after four. The cliff-top path from Causeway Hotel beats the shuttle every time.

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Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge
Experience

Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge

The fisherman's rope bridge to Carrickarede island, the salmon nets a century gone, the cliff path that earns it.

First-Person Insight

We pre-book a morning slot. The cliff walk in is the whole point, the bridge is just the punchline. Bring a coat regardless of the forecast.

How we'd do it: Pre-book a morning slot. Bring a coat, the wind is the whole point of the walk in.

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