Itinerary · Return to Ireland
Updated 202610 Days for the Second Trip
Ten days for travelers who already did the highlights. No Cliffs. No Ring of Kerry proper. No Trinity. Donegal, Sligo, Connemara, Beara, the Skellig coast, and a closing night at Cashel Palace. The Ireland the first trip pointed at without ever reaching.
The places we recommend to friends.
The Ireland Deborah returns to. Read her editorial perspective
If this is the second Ireland trip, ten days:
→ Dublin in, Cork out. No loop back.
→ Lough Eske, Markree, Ballynahinch, Sheen Falls, Cashel Palace.
→ Slieve League instead of Moher. Beara instead of the Ring.
Route Overview
Five Castles, Five Counties, No First-Time Stops
- Day 1: Dublin to Lough Eske via the Boyne Valley.
- Day 2: Slieve League and Glencolmcille.
- Day 3: South to Markree via Mullaghmore.
- Day 4: Ben Bulben, Yeats, Lissadell.
- Day 5: South to Ballynahinch via Westport and Killary.
- Day 6: Sky Road, Kylemore garden.
- Day 7: South via the Burren and Limerick to Sheen Falls Lodge in Kenmare.
- Day 8: Beara Peninsula loop. The Ring of Kerry's quieter sister.
- Day 9: Skellig coast from Portmagee or Valentia. No island landing required.
- Day 10: Cashel Palace night. Cork airport in the morning.
Five bases, no first-time beats, ten days. The Ireland that pays the cost of the second flight.
Cartography
Five Castles, Five Counties, No First-Time Stops
Lough Eske Castle · Markree Castle · Ballynahinch Castle · Sheen Falls Lodge
Regions
4 stops
You have seen Trinity. Drive past it.
Dublin to Lough Eske
North through the Boyne. Castle by 6pm.
Quick Read
What this day is: Dublin arrival, north via the Boyne Valley, into Lough Eske Castle by 6pm.
Best way to do it: Private transfer with a Boyne stop.
What you'll remember: Lough Eske at last light, the castle behind.
The Day
Morning
Dublin by 10am. Driver collects.
Midday
Lunch in Bettystown at the Beach House.
Afternoon
North via Enniskillen. Into Lough Eske by 5pm.
Evening
Cellar Restaurant at the castle. Donegal lamb.
Signature Moment
→ First sight of the lough from the castle drive.
Where You'll Eat
Where: Cellar Restaurant at Lough Eske.
Order: Donegal lamb, Burgundy.
When: 7:30pm.
Skip: Eating in Donegal town the first night.
What People Get Wrong
Doing Newgrange on arrival day. The Boyne lunch is enough.
The Ireland Edit Take
Castle-side room, not the spa wing.
Experiences
What We'd Book First
Five castles, five bookings. Lock these first.
- 1.Lough Eske Castle, two nights. Donegal's only five-star.
- 2.Markree Castle, two nights. Family-owned, library wing.
- 3.Ballynahinch Castle, two nights. Riverside rooms only.
- 4.Sheen Falls Lodge, three nights. River-view rooms.
- 5.Cashel Palace, one night. Garden rooms quieter than the main house.
Today the Wild Atlantic North earns the name.
Slieve League and Glencolmcille
Taller than Moher. Emptier.
Quick Read
What this day is: Slieve League cliffs in the morning, Glencolmcille loop in the afternoon.
Best way to do it: Self-drive. At Slieve League by 9:30am.
What you'll remember: The Slieve League upper viewpoint.
The Day
Morning
Slieve League upper walk by 9:30am, 90 minutes.
Midday
Lunch at Ti Linn café at the cliffs.
Afternoon
Glencolmcille Folk Village and loop, two hours.
Evening
Back at Lough Eske. Gallery Bar dinner.
Signature Moment
→ Slieve League upper viewpoint. Three times Moher's height.
Where You'll Eat
Where: Ti Linn café.
Order: Crab sandwich, brown bread.
When: 12:30pm.
Skip: Going up in cloud.
What People Get Wrong
Treating Slieve League as a photo stop.
The Ireland Edit Take
Drive Carrick to Glencolmcille via Malin Beg.
Experiences
Donegal recedes. Sligo opens.
Lough Eske to Markree
South through Mullaghmore. Yeats country.
Quick Read
What this day is: Check out, south via Mullaghmore Head, into Markree by 4pm.
Best way to do it: Self-drive. Coast road, not the N15.
What you'll remember: Classiebawn Castle on its headland with Ben Bulben behind.
The Day
Morning
Late breakfast. Check out 11am.
Midday
Lunch at Eithna's in Mullaghmore. Oysters.
Afternoon
Mullaghmore Head walk. South to Markree by 4pm.
Evening
Knockmuldowney at Markree. Sligo Bay scallops.
Signature Moment
→ Mullaghmore Head with Classiebawn and Ben Bulben in one frame.
Where You'll Eat
Where: Eithna's by the Sea.
Order: Oysters, seafood chowder.
When: 1pm.
Skip: The inland N15.
What People Get Wrong
Skipping Mullaghmore for time.
The Ireland Edit Take
Library wing at Markree, not the modern wing.
Where to Stay
Experiences
Yeats wrote the country. Today you walk it.
Ben Bulben, Yeats, Lissadell
The mountain, the grave, the house.
Quick Read
What this day is: Ben Bulben forest loop, Drumcliffe, Lissadell House.
Best way to do it: Self-drive. Three stops within fifteen minutes of each other.
What you'll remember: Yeats' grave at Drumcliffe with Ben Bulben behind.
The Day
Morning
Ben Bulben forest loop by 9:30am, 5km, 90 minutes.
Midday
Drumcliffe churchyard and tearoom.
Afternoon
Lissadell House and gardens, two hours guided.
Evening
Final Sligo dinner at Markree.
Signature Moment
→ Yeats' grave at Drumcliffe with Ben Bulben rising behind.
Where You'll Eat
Where: Drumcliffe tearoom; Knockmuldowney for dinner.
Order: Brown bread; scallops, lamb.
When: Drumcliffe 12pm. Markree 7:30pm.
Skip: Lunch in Sligo town.
What People Get Wrong
Treating Drumcliffe as a five-minute stop.
The Ireland Edit Take
Lissadell garden tour, not just the house.
Where to Stay
Experiences
Mayo, then Connemara.
Markree to Ballynahinch
South via Westport and Killary fjord.
Quick Read
What this day is: Check out, south via Westport and Killary, into Ballynahinch by 5pm.
Best way to do it: Self-drive. Three hours with two stops.
What you'll remember: Killary Harbour from the Leenane road.
The Day
Morning
Check out 11am.
Midday
Lunch at Sage in Westport. Greenway walk, thirty minutes.
Afternoon
South via Leenane and Killary. Ballynahinch by 5pm.
Evening
Owenmore Restaurant at Ballynahinch.
Signature Moment
→ Killary Harbour with the mussel rafts on the water.
Where You'll Eat
Where: Sage in Westport.
Order: Daily chalkboard.
When: 1pm.
Skip: Stopping at Knock.
What People Get Wrong
Adding Achill on transfer day.
The Ireland Edit Take
The Leenane road over the inland N59.
Experiences
The route the first trip skipped.
Sky Road and Kylemore
Connemara on foot.
Quick Read
What this day is: Sky Road morning, Kylemore garden afternoon.
Best way to do it: Self-drive. Sky Road counter-clockwise.
What you'll remember: The walled garden at Kylemore, empty by 4pm.
The Day
Morning
Drive to Clifden. Sky Road counter-clockwise, 90 minutes.
Midday
Lunch at Mitchell's in Clifden. Seafood chowder.
Afternoon
Kylemore by 2pm. Walled garden, 90 minutes.
Evening
Final Connemara dinner at the Owenmore.
Signature Moment
→ Eastern Sky Road viewpoint, empty.
Where You'll Eat
Where: Mitchell's; Owenmore.
Order: Chowder; the set menu.
When: 1pm; 7:30pm.
Skip: Sky Road clockwise.
What People Get Wrong
Adding Diamond Hill.
The Ireland Edit Take
Library at Ballynahinch after dinner.
Experiences
The longest drive of the trip. Done right, it's a slow scenic day.
Ballynahinch to Sheen Falls
South through the Burren and Limerick. Into Kenmare by 6pm.
Quick Read
What this day is: Check out, south via the Burren coast and Limerick, into Sheen Falls Lodge by 6pm.
Best way to do it: Self-drive. Four hours' driving total, broken with two stops.
What you'll remember: Arriving at Sheen Falls, the river through the dining room window.
The Day
Morning
Check out 10am. South via Galway and the Burren coast.
Midday
Lunch at the Wild Honey Inn in Lisdoonvarna.
Afternoon
South through Limerick and Adare. Kenmare by 6pm.
Evening
Dinner at the Falls Restaurant at Sheen Falls.
Signature Moment
→ The Sheen Falls dining room with the falls visible through the window.
Where You'll Eat
Where: Wild Honey Inn for lunch.
Order: Daily chalkboard, a glass of wine.
When: 12:30pm.
Skip: Eating at motorway services.
What People Get Wrong
Trying to add a Burren walk on transfer day.
The Ireland Edit Take
River-view room at Sheen Falls. The falls are the booking.
Experiences
Today is what the Ring of Kerry should have been.
Beara Peninsula
The Ring's quieter sister. Half the cars, more of the coast.
Quick Read
What this day is: Beara Peninsula loop from Kenmare. Allihies copper mines, Healy Pass, Glengarriff.
Best way to do it: Self-drive. Counter-clockwise from Kenmare. Six hours including stops.
What you'll remember: The Healy Pass at the top. The whole peninsula spread below.
The Day
Morning
Out of Kenmare by 9:30am. West via Lauragh.
Midday
Lunch at MacCarthy's in Castletownbere, the harbour bar.
Afternoon
Allihies copper trail walk, ninety minutes. Healy Pass back.
Evening
Dinner at Mulcahy's in Kenmare. The asian fusion menu.
Signature Moment
→ The Healy Pass at the top, the peninsula and Glengarriff harbour below.
Where You'll Eat
Where: MacCarthy's in Castletownbere.
Order: The crab open sandwich, a pint of Beamish.
When: 1pm.
Skip: Trying to do Bere Island. Not on a loop day.
What People Get Wrong
Doing the Ring of Kerry instead of Beara. The Ring is the photo. Beara is the country.
The Ireland Edit Take
Counter-clockwise. The light is better in the afternoon on the north side.
The view that earned the second trip.
Skellig Coast
Skellig Michael from the mainland. No landing required.
Quick Read
What this day is: Drive to Portmagee or Valentia. Skellig Ring loop. Boat tour past Skellig Michael if the sea allows.
Best way to do it: Self-drive. The Skellig Ring is the western tip of the Iveragh, distinct from the main Ring of Kerry.
What you'll remember: The Skelligs from the Coomanaspig Pass. The drop, the islands, the Atlantic.
The Day
Morning
Drive to Portmagee by 10am via Cahersiveen.
Midday
Lunch at the Moorings in Portmagee. Crab claws, chowder.
Afternoon
Skellig Ring drive. Coomanaspig Pass. Valentia.
Evening
Back at Sheen Falls by 7pm. Final Kenmare dinner.
Signature Moment
→ The Skelligs from the Coomanaspig Pass at 4pm. The most western view in Ireland.
Where You'll Eat
Where: The Moorings in Portmagee.
Order: Crab claws, seafood chowder.
When: 12:30pm.
Skip: Booking a Skellig landing without a year's planning.
What People Get Wrong
Trying to land on Skellig Michael without an advance booking. The boat tour past is the alternative.
The Ireland Edit Take
The Skellig Ring, not the main Ring of Kerry. Different road, different country.
Where to Stay
Experiences
The trip ends at the foot of the Rock.
Sheen Falls to Cashel Palace and Cork
Final night at Cashel Palace. Morning flight from Cork.
Quick Read
What this day is: Check out of Sheen Falls. North via Mallow to Cashel. Rock of Cashel before dinner.
Best way to do it: Self-drive. Two and a half hours to Cashel. Forty minutes the next morning to Cork airport.
What you'll remember: Cashel Palace at last light with the Rock above.
The Day
Morning
Check out Sheen Falls 11am. North via Mallow.
Midday
Lunch at Sage in Midleton, or quick at Ballymaloe café.
Afternoon
Into Cashel Palace by 4pm. Walk up to the Rock of Cashel before dinner.
Evening
Final dinner at the Bishop's Buttery at Cashel Palace.
Signature Moment
→ Cashel Palace at 8pm with the Rock floodlit above. The trip's last image.
Where You'll Eat
Where: Bishop's Buttery at Cashel Palace.
Order: Tipperary lamb, the cheese course.
When: 7:30pm.
Skip: Eating in Cashel town. The Palace is the booking.
What People Get Wrong
Flying out of Dublin. Cork is forty minutes from Cashel and saves a four-hour transfer.
The Ireland Edit Take
Cashel Palace garden room, not the main house. Quieter, same view of the Rock.
Where to Stay
Experiences
Experiences
Why no Cliffs, no Ring, no Trinity.
The second trip is not the first trip with extra days. It is a different country, deliberately.
- Slieve League replaces the Cliffs of Moher. Taller, emptier, no coach park.
- Beara replaces the Ring of Kerry. Half the cars, more of the coast.
- The Skellig Ring replaces the main Iveragh loop. Different road, different country.
The Editors
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